Our Daily Recipe, Boursin and Bacon on Rustic Bread

Boursin and Bacon on Rustic Bread

I’m not too sure, how this came about but we have been making it since the early 1980’s, our nephew Dan might remember as he was always saying “Go on Aunty Maureen, just one more Please.”

He really loved Boursin cheese and his mother (My Sister Jayne) wasn’t all that happy as we were introducing him to expensive foods that were hard to obtain in Rishton, Lancashire back then.

However, whatever year it was it makes a superb lunch or supper dish, served with a tomato salad, and a chilled Chardonnay.

Serves / Makes:         4 servings

Prep-Time:                10 minutes

Cook-Time:               5 minutes

You Will Need;

340 grams, Boursin cheese

8 slices, cooked bacon

8 slices bread, any type of rustic country bread such as Pan de Campagne

1 tablespoon butter, softened

Method;

Spread each of 4 slices of bread with 85 grams of Boursin cheese, cut each bacon slice in half lengthwise.

Place 2 pieces of bacon (4 halves) on top of each of the prepared slices of bread and cover each prepared half with another slice of bread.

Evenly butter the top of each sandwich, place each sandwich butter side down in a frying pan over a medium heat.

While the first side is grilling, butter the second side of bread, cook until golden and crusty, about 1 to 2 minutes.

Carefully turn and cook until second side is golden, about 1-2 minutes more.

Serve and Enjoy

 😀

Catch of the Day

Image via Wikipedia

Cooking fish is clear-cut, if you just follow a few basic rules and you will plate up dishes to contend with the best of restaurants. It is recommended that we eat at least three or more portions of fish a week, as the experts have proved that if you eat more fish you are less likely to suffer from heart disease and cancer.

The fat in fish is omega-3, which seems to keep blood from getting sticky and to reduce the chances of having a stroke.

Maureen and myself well, we just like fish and seafood for its handiness, simplicity of cooking, taste and if it’s good for us well, that’s a bonus!

Fish and seafood is available to buy fresh, frozen, or cured, your fishmonger or supermarket fish counter should stock a large choice of each of the groups of seafood there are 3 main groups of fish;

Technorati Tags: Catch of the Day,Fish,supermarket,restaurants,seafood

White Sea Fish

White Fish (wet fish) including Cod, Haddock, Plaice, Whiting, Pollack, Saithe (Coley), Hake, Monkfish, Dover Sole, Lemon Sole, Megrim, Witch, Brill, Turbot, Halibut, Dogfish, Skates, Rays, John Dory, Bass, Ling, Catfish, and Redfish

White fish are divided into two types round and flat.

Large round white fish such as Cod and Coley are usually sold in steaks, fillets, or cutlets.

The small round species such as Whiting and Haddock are usually sold in fillets.

With flat fish, the larger species such as Halibut and Turbot are sold whole in fillets and as steaks

Smaller flat fish like Plaice and Sole are usually sold whole, trimmed, or filleted.

 

Oil Rich Fish

Herring, Mackerel, Pilchard, Sprat, Horse Mackerel, Whitebait, and Tuna

Oil-rich fish such as Herring and Mackerel are rich in omega 3 fatty acids, which have been shown to have a lowering effect on blood fats; this decreases the chance of blood vessels clogging up with cholesterol. Oil-rich fish is also a good source of vitamins A and D.

Fresh Water Fish

Salmon, Trout, Perch, Bass, Bream, Pike, Arctic Char

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And then there are Shellfish (Molluscs and Crustaceans)

• Clams, Cockles, Whelks, Periwinkles, Mussels (Today’s Catch), Oysters, Lobster, Crab, Prawns, Crayfish, Scallops, Sea Urchins, Shrimp, Squid, Octopus, and Cuttlefish

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Always ask for assistance when selecting your fish and shellfish especially if you are not sure how it should be prepared and cooked your fishmonger should be happy to prepare fresh fish for you in exactly the way you want, if what you want is not available, species of the same type can always be substituted and once again a good fishmonger can help you out.

We should be eating at least two portions of fish a week including one of oily fish. Fish and shellfish are good sources of a variety of vitamins and minerals, and oily fish is particularly rich in omega 3 fatty acids. But if we want to make sure there are enough fish to eat now, and in the future, we need to start thinking about the choices we make when we choose which fish we eat.

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Anyway enough of all that lets get to the main point of what we hope will be a weekly or fortnightly part of our blog;

Mussels

Mussels have earned an eminent place in the culinary echelon. The Romans adored them and the French King Louis XVIII was a great enthusiast. Known to man for thousands of years, mussels are abundant in the Atlantic, though they are now often commercially cultivated. All along the coast, you'll find mussels attached to small stones, seaweed and rocks; the larger ones are collected during low tide at the water's edge.

 It is said that in 1235, a ship loaded with sheep was wrecked in Aiguillon Bay. An Irishman named Walton, the only one of three crewmen to survive, lowered a net stretched over four pilings into the silt to collect his food. He soon noticed clusters of mussels appearing on the wooden posts, growing at a faster rate than in their natural banks. The first site for cultivating mussels was established in 1246 and the collecting stakes were called "bouchots" or "posts”.

Mussels are truly one of nature’s most delightful delicacies; they are extremely high in proteins, calcium, and iron while being low in fat and they are low in calories they contain a number of vitamins and minerals and are easily digested, not to mention they are decidedly inexpensive and good value for money.

Did you know that in 2009 one of Scotland’s leading shellfish companies clinched a deal to supply thousands of kilos of Scottish mussels per week to Belgium, the world’s biggest consumer of mussels, their national dish Belgians consume around a hundred thousand tonnes of mussels each year. Delhaize came to Isle of Shuna because they are one of the few companies in the world that can supply the best quality and consistency of supply of Scottish rope grown mussels, as well as extending availability and sustainability throughout the year.

Shetland Mussels themselves received the ultimate accolade by celebrity French chef Jean-Christophe Novelli during a visit to the islands to attend Shetland’s Food Festival visiting the shellfish farm Blueshell Mussels for a boat trip to see at first hand the mussels being harvested from their growing ropes, followed by a tasting session back ashore, he said “I was particularly impressed by the quality of the mussels grown in the clean waters around Shetland. These mussels are in my opinion the best in the world.”

They are also excellent for your heart, containing the highest amount of omega-3 of any shellfish (this is the naturally occurring fatty acid that is believed to lower blood pressure).

The protecting shells of the blue mussel are smooth, glossy, and dark blue or navy in colour, whilst the juicy meat contained within may range from a bright orange to a pale cream.

The difference in colour of the meat has nothing to do with a difference in taste, although some do say that the orange meat is fleshier and tastier.

The orange meat is found in the shell of a mature female mussel, whilst the pale cream meat mussels are males or immature females.

Mussels can grow in the wild or as is most popular nowadays, due to a huge demand and consumption, they can also be cultured or farmed.

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BUYING

Look for bright, clean, tightly closed unbroken shells. Fresh mussels smell briny-fresh, not ‘fishy’. When buying mussels you need to allow at least 1 pint (570 ml) per person for a first course, and 1½ to 2 pints (about 1 litre) for a main course. That may seem a lot, but some will have to be discarded and, once they have been shelled, mussels are very small and light.

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STORING

Best eaten within a day of buying

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PREPARING AND COOKING

Don't be tricked by how upmarket they look, mussels are the definitive uncomplicated seafood. Clean them, sauté them, steam them and hey up you'll have a dish everyone will be wowed there are many ways to serve the mussels, but the most classic is Moules Mariniere the mussels are offered in a sauce of white wine, shallots, parsley, and butter.

The ritual of cleaning and To Prepare them sounds more bother than it actually is. When you get them home, plonk the mussels straightaway into a sinkful of cold water, first of all throw out any that float to the top, then leave the cold tap running over them while you take a small knife and scrape off all the barnacles and pull off the little hairy beards. Discard any mussels that are broken, and any that are open and refuse to close tight when given a sharp tap with a knife. After you’ve cleaned each one, place it straight in another bowl of clean water.

When they’re all in, swirl them around in three or four more changes of cold water to get rid of any lingering bits of grit or sand. Leave the cleaned mussels in cold water until you’re ready to cook them. As an extra safety precaution, always check mussels again after cooking this time discarding any whose shells haven’t opened.

You can in addition find mussels served with sauces made with beer, or cream, or vegetable stock.

For the greatest authenticity, use a shell to crack open the mussels, not your fork.

Did I say that they are very good for you an 85 gram portion of cooked blue mussels contain 20 grams of protein and only 147 calories; it is rich in iron, manganese, phosphorous, selenium, zinc and vitamins C and B12. Mussels are low in fat, only containing 0.7 grams of saturated fat in an 85 gram portion. They are, though an extremely rich source of Omega-3 fatty acids, which are found in oily fish and other foods but are not produced by the body. The consumption of Omega-3 fatty acids helps prevent cardiovascular and heart disease and is an important part of a healthy diet, promoting a healthy brain as well as a healthy body. Mussels in fact contain higher levels of Omega-3 fatty acids than any other shellfish.

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Here below is one of our favourite recipes you can find more on our MyDish page.

Thyme Steamed Mussels

A quick, easy, flavoursome and attractive dish, the bacon and leeks truly enhance the mussels.

I have already mentioned that we both have a weakness for mussels and that I would be including our favourite ways of serving them and once again this recipe is no exception.

In the 1970’s when we served fresh mussels at the Willow Tree Restaurant, Bolton-le-Sands, this was the dish that got the most praise and using the freshest mussels from Morecambe Bay, the thyme which grew in the garden and serving it with the watercress that grew in the stream that ran through the property it was no wonder it got the praise it did. Now when we decide to have mussels for a meal we do have a little difficulty in choosing which recipe to use, Maureen has her favourite and I have mine, oh what a hard life we lead‼

Serves / Makes:      2 main course servings, or 4 starters

Prep-Time:               8 minutes

Cook-Time:              10 minutes

YOU WILL NEED;

1 kilo, fresh mussels

6 rashers, smoked streaky bacon, chopped into small pieces

2 baby leeks, sliced on the diagonal

30 grams, butter

1 red onion, peeled and chopped

3 cloves garlic, peeled and chopped

250mls, white wine

4 sprigs fresh thyme

250mls, double cream

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

20 grams, freshly chopped parsley, we sometimes use coriander or a favourite herb to use is chervil

METHOD;

Wash the mussels in a colander to remove any dirt or grime. Pick through the mussels and remove the beard Discard any which does not close when tapped.

Heat half the butter in a pan, and then sizzle the bacon for 3 to 4 minutes until starting to brown.

Add the leeks, onion, and garlic and, then sweat everything together for 4 to 5 minutes until soft.

Turn the heat up high, add the mussels’ thyme and wine, then cover and cook for 4 to 5 minutes, shaking the pan occasionally, until the mussels until the mussels begin to open.

Add the cream, seasoning and parsley, stirring the ingredients with a spoon heat through making sure all the mussels are open Discard any that remain closed.

Spoon the mussels and the other bits into a dish, then place the pan back on the heat and boil the juices for 1 min with the rest of the butter.

Divide the mussels between two bowls if serving as a main course 4 bowls for a starter and pour the sauce left in the pan over them.

Serve with crusty bread to mop up all the juices and Enjoy!

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If you like the Moules Pots Why Not Purchase Them From Where We Buy Ours at Amazon.co.uk

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Also for more recipes For Mussels Try These sites;

Seafish the authority on seafood, BBC-Food-Mussel Recipes, Steamed Mussels with Fyne Ales Highlander Beer and Arran Mustard, Mussels with Leeks, Cider & Cream, and finally but not least is Mussels with beer.

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Related articles

• Cast your nets wide for sustainable fish (thejc.com)
• Spanish-Style Seafood Rice (lizzieeatslondon.blogspot.com)

John & Maureen Glen Tags: White Fish (wet fish), Cod, Haddock, Plaice, Whiting, Pollack, Saithe (Coley), Hake, Monkfish, Dover Sole, Clams, Cockles, Whelks, Periwinkles, Mussels (Today’s Catch), Oysters, Lobster, Crab, Prawns, Crayfish, Scallops, Sea Urchins, Shrimp, Squid, Octopus, Cuttlefish, Lemon Sole, Megrim, Witch, Brill, Turbot, Halibut, Dogfish, Skates, Rays, John Dory, Bass, Ling, Catfish, and Redfish

Potted, Meat, Fish, and Shellfish

A colleague asked what ever happened to potted salmon, potted shrimp, and potted beef?

Well that is certainly a tough question to answer and one that we had been talking about quite recently, when we found that we could only obtain Morecambe Bay potted shrimps online, Maureen loves Morecambe Bay potted shrimp especially from Baxters and I adore potted crab and potted ham and yes my friend you are right potted meats are very hard to find.

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At Baxters they have been producing Morecambe bay potted shrimps since 1799 and are extremely proud to be the oldest and most traditional such company in the country let alone Morecambe. They pride themselves on quality and their potted shrimps have achieved the highest accolade with the granting of royal warrant in the 1970’s which they retain to this day based on a totally unique recipe which has been handed down through the family for seven generations.

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We now make our own, and it seems we our not alone in thinking that chefs today must start putting them on their menus once again, below is a quote from Michael Smith found in his book “Fine English Cookery”

“The great British skill of potting meat and fish seems to have been for the most part forgotten by most of today's chefs. Well made potted foods are national dishes of which we should be justly proud." (Michael Smith, Fine English Cookery).

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Maureen and I have been making, serving and eating potted meats and fish for most of our working lives, potted beef, potted shrimps, potted salmon and potted game we think are national treasures and the meat and fish pastes we see in the shops and supermarkets no matter how bland are all based on the cooking technique we call potting and it is such a disgrace that this form of cooking is/has been forgotten by our leading chefs.

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There was a minute, about 15 years ago, when potted meats and fish should/could have made a comeback, contemporary British cooking had rejected the so called “Nouvelle Cuisine” both chefs and their customers were responding quite angrily in opposition to daft combinations associated with miniscule portions and astronomical prices. Rustic, homemade, home cooked and other descriptions started being used and it was thought that a return to good British culinary practices was making a return, what happened?

Nothing and we blame the experimental chefs with their scientific attitude, in some ways it was fusion cuisine, and we could blame Jamie and his continental influence, it was sous-vide (to me that was just a way to get “Boil-in-the-Bag” a respectable image), water baths and other new equipment, the modern chef and the celebrity chef/cook was too busy trying to find new producers or crafting new dishes that took 20 minutes or less to prepare to look back in time to a period of good honest simple cooking.

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If they had looked back to that period of time when chef’s like Albert and Michel Roux were setting up La Gavroche, when John Tovey of Miller Howe was being his brilliant self, or even further back to Elizabeth David and Isabella Mary Beeton they would have found vanished parts of our very own repertoire such as: Pâtés, Terrines, Mousses, Rillettes and of course Potting meat, which when you think about it is the cooking cousin of Rillettes.
Just have a browse through old recipe books and you'll find ways of potting every kind of meat and fish, from kippers, salmon, and shellfish to beef, pork, ham, and chicken, and from rabbit to venison.

Potted meats and fish are likely to be more or less rich, both from rendered fat or butter; than Rillettes, also British potted foods tend to have more diverse seasonings than would be used in France, Spain, and Italy. Mace is the most usual spice used, although cayenne, ginger, nutmeg and black or white pepper is commonly used as well.

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Potted foods were meant to be used as stored foods pretty much like the meat pastes of today and when I was learning my craft they were frequently made from leftovers you can make potted meat from any leftover roast. Just chop the meat and mix with melted butter, cayenne, lemon zest, salt, pepper, and mace with a little nutmeg, set into a dish with a few herbs or a bay leaf on top, this is my take on rillettes, an uplifting meal they should keep for about 2 weeks in the fridge although why keep them in the fridge just eat them with some toast, homemade relish and some salad.

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So we say bring back our potted meats, fish and seafood, bring back our terrines, mousses and pastes they make a great starters, snacks and sandwich fillers and what’s more they are kind to your pocket and it is beginning to happen!

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Michel Roux serves a beautiful classic duck foie gras terrine at La Gavroche, Mike Robinson owner of the highly acclaimed Pot Kiln Pub and Restaurant in Yattendon, Berkshire  makes a delightful potted venison and other brave chefs  and establishments such as “The Walrus and The Carpenter” 45 Monument Street, London serve a tasty potted beef at under a fiver.

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Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall is a great advocate of potting and making terrines and even Jamie has got back on track with a recipe for “Old-fashioned potted crab” although I can’t see a lot of differences between that recipe and a traditional recipe that we use, having said that it is wonderful to see that other chefs across the land are now serving potted meat, fish and shellfish in their restaurants, pubs and bistros.

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Below and on MyDish you will find recipes from myself and others for potted meat, fish and shellfish recipes and served with crusty bread, toast, and some salads and chutneys you will be able to serve up to friends and families a amazingly flavoursome meal.

On MyDish you will find recipes for;

Potted Beef and Potted Crab

 

 

 

 

 

 

Jo Pratt's Potted Prawns and Crab

These little pots of juicy prawns and sweet crabmeat in a delicate, dill-flavoured butter are perfect for a beach picnic. Spread over some rye or crusty bread for a light, tasty nibble, so says Jo Pratt from the Mail online and we have just got to agree with her and you do not need to change any of this recipe it is as tasty as it is scrumptious!

Serves / Makes: 2 servings Prep-Time: 10 minutes plus 1 hour to chill

YOU WILL NEED

75 grams, unsalted butter

100 grams, cooked and peeled small Atlantic prawns

100 grams, white crabmeat (preferably fresh but tinned is fine)

1 teaspoon chopped dill

Finely grated zest of ½ lemon

Sea salt

Cayenne pepper

Rye or crusty brown bread

METHOD

Gently melt the butter in a saucepan and pour into a jug for all the milky solids to sink to the bottom.

Mix together the prawns, crab, dill and lemon zest and season with salt and a shake of cayenne pepper. Divide between a couple of small pots or ramekins and pack down really well with the back of a spoon. Pour over the clear (clarified) butter to just cover the mixture, leaving behind the milky solids. Chill in the fridge for about 45 minutes to set the butter.

Cover each pot with cling-film and pack in a cool bag with your chosen bread. Don’t forget some napkins and a couple of knives to scoop out, spread the potted prawns, and crab on to the bread. Serve and Enjoy!

NOTES

Read more see Jo Pratt on the Mail Online

Jo Pratt is a regular face on Market Kitchen cooking delicious no-fuss recipes.

Jo graduated in July 1995 from Liverpool John Moores University with a BA honours degree in Home Economics. She went on to work with Gary Rhodes at the BBC Good Food Show in November 1996, before becoming the main home economist for all his series and books.

Jo has worked with many other celebrity chefs including Ainsley Harriot, Anthony Worrall Thompson, Jamie Oliver, Tony Tobin, and Brian Turner on various television, demonstrations, and photography projects.

Readers of Elle magazine will be familiar with her monthly food column, Elle's Kitchen. She co-wrote The Nation's Favourite Food in 2003, and provided the recipes for dishes voted for by the British public to accompany the eponymous titled TV series. This year, Jo published her new book In the Mood for Food

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Potted Shrimp

Sweet succulent brown shrimp enveloped in a seasoned butter encapsulating a revered stylishness that is simply wonderful for a summery starter or light lunch.

Coming from Lancashire we have always had Morecambe bay potted shrimps, and when we were at the Willow Tree restaurant at Bolton-le-Sands just outside Morecambe we always used to serve Baxters of Morecambe potted shrimps. After a couple of years and we were moving down to the Great Tree Hotel, Chagford, Devon this was about 1979, I cheekily asked for their recipe, they refused of course but with a little persistence I was able to obtain this recipe not the original but close enough and it quickly became very popular with the patrons at the Great Tree Hotel.

At Baxters they have been producing Morecambe bay potted shrimps since 1799 and are extremely proud to be the oldest and most traditional such company in the country let alone Morecambe. They pride themselves on quality and their potted shrimps have achieved the highest accolade with the granting of royal warrant in the 1970’s which they retain to this day based on a totally unique recipe which has been handed down through the family for seven generations.

Serves / Makes: 6 servings

Prep-Time: 15 minutes

Cook-Time: 5 minutes

YOU WILL NEED

170 grams unsalted butter

1 teaspoon, ground black pepper

½ teaspoon, ground mace

½ teaspoon, ground cayenne pepper

1 small bay leaf

500 grams, peeled brown shrimps

Wholemeal brown bread, to serve

3 lemons cut into wedges

METHOD

In a saucepan melt the butter then add the ground black pepper, mace, cayenne pepper, and bay leaf allow the butter to cool until it is just warm, remove the bay leaf.

Place the shrimp equally into 6 ramekins cover with the spiced butter and a little salt place into the fridge and chill until set.

Toast the bread and serve warm with the potted shrimp and a wedge of lemon and enjoy!

NOTES

Potted shrimps, old fashioned and buttery are eternally associated with Morecambe bay in Lancashire, where shrimps are potted to this day. The main season for them is from August bank holiday (the last Monday in August) to Christmas and it is the peeling that makes potting shrimps so labour intensive thus expensive.

Morecambe bay brown shrimps are celebrated for their delicate taste and unique texture; they have been caught by local fishermen for hundreds of years. Even though the fishing methods have changed, with the horse and cart being replaced by the tractor, locals still follow the same traditional recipes that have been passed down in their families. Locally caught shrimps, boiled in butter with a secret combination of spices until they are tender they are then sealed with butter and packed into pots, they can be eaten either warm or cold.

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John & Maureen Glen Tags: Food Blog, Blog, food, recipe, Shellfish, Seafood, Lancashire, Morecambe, Bolton-le-Sands, Potted Shrimp, Baxters, Brown Shrimp, The Great Tree Hotel, Devon, The Willow Tree Restaurant, Prawns, Crab, Mail Online, Jo Pratt, Ainsley Harriot, Anthony Worrall Thompson, Jamie Oliver, Tony Tobin, Brian Turner, potting, meat, potted meat, potted fish

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• The Kitchen Thinker: Potted food (telegraph.co.uk)
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• Potted shrimp (boston.com)

January, What’s in Season This Month

At the commencement of the year, we are starting to crave for fruit other than apples and pears, its time to look out for the first early forced rhubarb. It’s still really the season for root vegetables and cabbages of all types and whilst we are awaiting for the new season lamb we can still enjoy the last of the game, and while fish is plentiful, some boats have hit really bad weather so expect some fish prices to be a little high.

The weather has been freezing or miserable, many of us are thinking they should be on a diet or a detox cure after the Christmas excesses, and no-one’s got any money so it must be time to make soup it’s easy, it’s quick, it’s nourishing and it’s cheap.

Why spend money on expensive supermarket ready-prepared soup when you can make a large panful yourself in less than 20 minutes with fresh vegetables bought on the market? Make enough to feed the family and have some left over for the freezer.

British winter fruit and veg is not just for Christmas; feast on it especially after a sharp frost and don’t forget Spring is not long in coming!

Cheshire and Stilton cheeses are at their best this time of year, Kale, Spinach, Leeks, Swedes, Celeriac, Cabbage, Turnips are at their peak and just coming in are Winter cabbages, new carrots and the first of the early forced rhubarb.

Cauliflowers from Cornwall make a tasty cauliflower cheese and the leeks from Lancashire are simply great for those soups and casseroles.

Mussels, Crabs, Oysters and Lobsters are really delicious now and I find that British beef is very good value Maureen and I have just had a pot roast made with a jolly good bit of brisket.

I can’t emphasise enough that the winter months are the time to enjoy British root vegetables and stores of local fruit and being harvested this month are leeks, green cabbages, parsnips, turnips, sprouts, celeriac, Jerusalem artichokes, shallots, mushrooms and forced rhubarb.

Fruit at Its Best

Apples, Cranberries, Passion Fruit, Pears, Pineapple, Pomegranate, Clementine’s, Satsuma’s, and Tangerines, Almonds, Brazil Nuts, Chestnuts, Hazelnuts, Truffles (Black And White), and Walnuts.

Vegetables at Their Best

The humble carrot is best in January as are Beetroot, Brussels Sprouts, Carrots, Cauliflower, Celeriac, Celery, Chicory, Horseradish, Jerusalem Artichoke, Kale, Kohlrabi, Leeks, Onions, Parsnips, Potatoes (Maincrop), Purple Sprouting Broccoli, Radishes, Rhubarb, Rocket, Salsify, Shallots, Spinach, Swede and Turnips.

Meat, Poultry and Game at Its Best

Beef, Duck, Goose, Grouse, Guinea Fowl, Ham, Hare, Lamb, Partridge, Pheasant, Pork, Rabbit, Turkey, Venison, And Wood Pigeon.

Fish and Seafood at Its Best

Brill, Clams, Cockles, Cod, Conger Eel, Crab, Dab, Dover Sole, Eel, Haddock, Halibut, Hake, John Dory, Langoustine, Lemon Sole, Lobster, Mackerel, Monkfish, Mussels, Oysters, Plaice, Scallops, Sea Bream, Skate, Squid, Turbot and Winkles.

Herbs etc. at their best

Chestnuts, chives, coriander, mushrooms (cultivated), parsley (curly) and wild mushrooms.

The Latest Grocery News for January 2011

Last month this section was about the supermarkets but it has been pointed out that doing a section on all the news about our groceries would be much better so here we are bringing you the hottest news on products in the high street, markets, corner stores, supermarkets and other major items of interest about British food and what is our analysis of what we think is of interest.

EU orders U.K trawlers to dump 1million tons of fish,

Fresh anger over “mad” European Union fishing quotas erupted last night after an investigation showed that British fishermen are being forced to throw back nearly half of every haul into the sea.

New figures revealed that nearly a million tons of edible fish are chucked overboard every year across the whole North Sea trawler fleet.

The shocking extent of the waste caused by the EU’s Common Fisheries Policy will be shown next week in a Channel 4 documentary by TV chef Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall.

“It’s not just a few undersize or damaged fish. It’s basket after basket of prime cod and coley,” Mr Fearnley-Whittingstall said. He calculated that around 600 kilos of fish were thrown back after one five-hour trawl of the nets.

“I could have fed 2,000 people with these fish but EU law says they can’t be landed, they must be thrown back”, the TV chef said.

EU fish quotas were introduced to protect dwindling stocks of fish by curbing excessive fishing of certain species. But the regulations mean crews are forced to dump millions of dead fish when over the maximum limit.

English and Welsh fishing vessels have discarded 4.8 million cod, 3.9 million haddock, 4.9 million plaice, 737,000 sole, and 17 million whiting in the last 10 years, according to Government statistics.

Tory backbencher Peter Bone, a member of the Better off Out group of MPs, said: “Nobody in their right mind would think it sensible to chuck millions of perfectly edible fish into the sea. This is purely to support an EU fishing law that has failed.

“Britain must get back its powers over fishing rights. And the best way to do that is to get out of the EU.”

The Channel 4 programme shows how the 600-ton trawler the Seagull fished for monkfish, megrim, and ling after using up its quota for cod months ago.

Gary Much, skipper of the Seagull, tells the programme: “I can’t put a sign on the nets saying: ‘No cod today, please.’ “If we could land all the fish we catch, we could go to sea for half as many days using half the fuel and no fish would be wasted. It’s madness.”

Hugh’s Fish Fight is to be broadcast on Channel 4 next Tuesday to Thursday at 9pm.

Celebrity chefs make gurnard and dab fashionable

Strange species of fish could become the trendiest dish for a dinner party following a TV campaign by celebrity chefs to promote more sustainable fisheries off Britain.

The new campaign is being launched to persuade people to consider trying a new piscine experience. The campaign will feature on a celebrity chef-fronted Channel 4 season and Hugh Fernley-Whittingstall will take the lead in advising viewers that for every meal of salmon, cod and tuna, people should eat one containing abundant species such as gurnard and dab.

Other News

• The Co-operative has become the first retailer to switch its own label sliced bread to 100 per cent British wheat. Note, both Tesco and Sainsbury's use 100 per cent British wheat for products made in their in-store bakeries but not in sliced pre-packed loaves.
• Goose producers have launched the first ever label for British free-range geese so look out for it in-store!
• The Co-operative has launched one of its biggest ever food campaigns. The supermarket is trying to encourage people to change their shopping habits and shop locally: 'Good food within easy reach.'
• M & S has launched a new 'Lovely Vegetable' range, which will contain a minimum of two of the recommended 5 A DAY. Seasonal British vegetables will be used where possible, with new dishes being introduced depending on what's in season.
• Sainsbury's and Morrisons lead the sales of English top fruit. Figures by the English Apples and Pears organisation show Morrison has increased its share from 19.6 per cent to 21.2 per cent this season and Sainsbury's holds a 25 per cent share. Meanwhile, Asda has struggled to perform this season with their share falling from 13.5 per cent to only 11 per cent.

Local Shopping

TACHBROOK STREET MARKET

• Address, Tachbrook Street, SW1
  Trading hours, Monday to Saturday, 8am to 6pm
  Nearest tube, Victoria or Pimlico
  Bus 2, 24, 36, 185, 436

Open every day except Sunday, the number of stalls in this ancient street market increases as the week moves forwards, the market offers a wide array of goods from home furnishings and gardening equipment, to fruit and veg, fresh meat, fish, shellfish and bread and cakes, the market is home to an array of events counting late night shopping, gourmet lunchtime offers, ‘Fashion Thursdays’ and it will be hosting a brilliant Christmas market. Managed by Westminster Artisans Ltd on behalf of Westminster Council it is set to be a community hub thanks to its lively diverse array of stalls with scrumptious international hot food the paella is superb, fresh food, chocolate, cheese, olive oil, bread, funky fashion, and lots more. Discover different stalls on different days

Dates for your diary: Spring 2011 - Pimlico Food Festival

On Sonny’s Stall Tachbrook Street Market

What a pleasure it is to see such fresh produce full of vibrant colours this week was no disappointment with what was on offer. There was Apples, Gala, English Russets, Braeburns and Bramleys, Artichokes, Beets, Broccoli, Cabbage, Cauliflower, Courgettes, English King Edward Potatoes, English Raspberries, Fennel, Field Mushrooms, Leeks, Mache (Lambs Lettuce), Parsnips, Purple Sprouting Broccoli, Radish, Watercress, While Peaches, some fantastic pumpkins and squashes and you can plainly see that all of what was available was in first-rate condition.

 

Our Local Butchers have been getting in

As well as the customary cuts of meat on offer at Freemans they also had some exceptional beef we had a fantastic piece of brisket for pot-roast, also on show was some truly fine oxtail and at under £6 a kilo you just can’t go wrong.

We had some excellent pork loin chops at a much more attractive price and quality than is offered by the supermarkets.

Alhayat had some exceptional Heather Fed Scottish lamb, British rosé veal and chicken and at a fantastic price, you can’t go wrong giving this shop a go.

Our Local Fishmonger Jon Norris Tachbrook Street Market

After a short Christmas break Jon is back and I think the people queuing up for his wares are getting longer and its no wonder as this week he had on offer some outstanding plump succulent Cornish Pollock (see below for my notes on this versatile cousin to the Cod) on his stall, you had your choice of steaks and fillets and one lady was buying a whole Pollock which Jon gladly cleaned and prepared it for her

His display as usual was a picture with Brill, Clams including sweet plump Razor Clams, Cod fillets, Cod steaks, Crab, Haddock, Hake, Halibut, John Dory, Lemon Sole, Megrim Sole, Dover Sole, Gilthead Bream, Cornish Gurnard, Lobster, Scottish Mackerel, Mussels, Monkfish, Native Oysters, Cornish Octopus, Plaice so plump and sweet, Pollock this is a must to try, Prawns, Rock Oysters, Scallops from the Isle of Man, wild Sea Bass, Skate, Sprats, Squid, Turbot, and Cornish Whiting, most all Jon’s fish is from around the Cornish, Devon and Scottish coasts and his prices are so competitive you must give this talented and exceptional fishmonger a try, you won’t be sorry.

Jon’s Tips to Buying Fish and Shellfish;

Fresh Whole Fish

1. The eyes should be clear and convex, not sunken
2. The flesh should be firm and resilient to finger pressure
3. The fish should smell freshly and lightly of the sea
4. Don’t buy fish with a strong ‘fishy’ or sulphurous odour, or that smells of ammonia.
5. Oily fish like herring, mackerel, and salmon should have a light, fresh oil smell, like linseed oil. If they smell of rancid oil, don’t buy.

Fresh Fillets

1. The surface of the fillet should be moist, with no signs of discolouration.
2. The texture should be firm, with no mushiness. Some separation of the muscle flakes (caused by the filleting process) is completely normal, but it shouldn’t be excessive.
3. As with whole fish, the smell should be fresh and light, with no ‘off’ odours.
4. Live bi-valves (including mussels, clams and oysters)
5. The general rule of not buying bi-valves during any month spelled without an ‘r’ (i.e. May to August) still holds true, as this is the spawning season and quality will be poorer. When raw, the shells should be closed tight. Any slightly open shells that don’t close up in response to a few light taps should be discarded. When cooked, the shells should open – discard any that don’t.

Pollack our Fish of the Week

Pollock or Pollack is one more those fish which is frequently disregarded by consumers in this country, who instead plump for Cod or Haddock.

Our Celtic cousins across the Channel take another view stop at any fish restaurant in Brittany and ‘Lieu Jaune’ (Pollock) will habitually be the daily special or main attraction on the menu.

The worth that the French place on Pollack is reflected by the price they are will charge, conventionally Pollock have been caught either by inshore fishermen using hand lines around the rocks or as a extra catch by fishermen fishing for cod and other round fish type. Nevertheless, improved access to the French market has resulted in increasingly rising prices paid at first auction for Pollock. As a consequence, local fishermen are fishing for Pollock with hand lines and gill nets, fishing in their preferred locale;

In reaction to mounting prices and the ever-increasing price placed on line caught fish, talks are presently being held about the labelling of Pollock in the same way that line caught Bass are labelled (see www.linecaught.org.uk) providing “line-to-plate” traceability.

Another good reason to try Pollack is that around 90% of the Pollock landed in the UK is caught off the south west coast and landed into Cornish Ports landings are steady at just over 1000 tonnes per annum and the stock levels are said to be ‘stable’ by ICES Fisheries Scientists.

Pollack is available most of the year but more plentiful in the first and second quarters of the year, with 60% of the annual catch being taken in February, March and April.

Recipes for January

Pan Fried Pollack

A tasty fish dish from Raymond Blanc, don’t forget that the French think Pollack much more important that we Brits do and I think this dish is one of the best ways to introduce family and friends to this beautiful fish.

Serves / Makes:      4 servings

Prep-Time:               15 minutes

Cook-Time:              30 minutes

You Will Need

For the pommes purées

1 kilo / 1lb 2oz potatoes, such as Desirée, Belle de Fontenay, Estima or Maris Piper, peeled, cut into quarters

2 litres / 3 pints 10½ fl oz. cold water

200mls / 7 fl oz full-fat milk

60 grams / 2½oz unsalted butter

2 pinches sea salt

2 pinches freshly ground white pepper

For the Pollock

30 grams sliced white bread, cut into 1cm/½in cubes

4 x 180 grams / 6 ounce Pollock fillets, about 3cm/1¼in thick, skin on, bones removed

4 pinches sea salt

1 pinch freshly ground white pepper

60 grams / 2½ ounces unsalted butter

50mls / 2 fl oz hot brown chicken stock

50ml / 2 fl oz hot water

30 grams / 1¼ ounces capers, drained, rinsed

½ lemon, peeled, segmented, roughly chopped

30 grams / 1¼ ounces shallot, peeled and finely chopped

30 grams / 1¼ ounces caper berries

10 grams /½ ounce chopped fresh flat leaf parsley

10 grams / ½ ounce chopped fresh chervil

Method

For the pommes purées, bring the potatoes to the boil in a large pan of cold, salted water. Reduce the heat until the water is just simmering and cook for 25-30 minutes, or until the potatoes are soft.

Drain well in a colander, setting the drained potatoes aside for 2-3 minutes to drive off the excess steam.

Mash the potatoes until smooth using a potato ricer or masher. Return the potato purée to a saucepan, add the milk and beat well until combined.

Beat in the butter until the mixture is fluffy and forms firm peaks, then season, to taste, with salt and freshly ground white pepper. Keep warm.

Meanwhile, for the pollock, preheat the oven to its highest setting. Scatter the bread cubes onto a large baking tray and dry roast in the oven for 3-4 minutes, or until crisp and golden-brown. Remove the croûtons from the oven and set aside. Reduce the oven temperature to 200C/400F/Gas 6.

Pat the pollock fillets dry using kitchen paper, then season all over, to taste, with the salt and freshly ground white pepper.

Heat the butter in a frying pan over a medium heat. When the butter is foaming and starting to brown, add the pollock fillets, skin-sides facing upwards, and fry for 4-5 minutes, or until two thirds of each fish fillet has turned opaque.

Using a fish slice, carefully turn each pollock fillet over and continue to cook for a further 2-3 minutes.

Transfer the fish fillets to a cold ovenproof frying pan and roast in the oven for 3-4 minutes, or until just cooked through, then set the fish fillets aside on a warm plate to rest.

Return the frying pan used to cook the pollock to a high heat. Add the brown chicken stock and water and bring to the boil.

Add the capers, chopped lemon segments, shallots, caper berries and two-thirds of each of the herbs. Stir well and continue to cook for 1-2 minutes, or until warmed through. Season, to taste, with salt and freshly ground white pepper.

To serve, spoon the pommes purées into the centre of each of 4 serving plates. Place one pollock fillet on top of each portion. Spoon over the caper and lemon sauce, then sprinkle over the croûtons and the remaining herbs.

Ham Hocks the Irish Way

Sweet succulent ham hocks served with a colcannon mash and cheese cream, this is a very tasty dish and will keep family and friends coming back for more.

It seems like I have been cooking this dish all my life although it has been tweaked a little from the original dish I first cooked for a young farmer’s dinner way back in 1974.

Serves / Makes:      8 servings

Prep-Time:               overnight

Cook-Time:              2 hours

You Will Need

For The Ham Hocks

2 x 350 gram ham hocks, soaked in a bowl of cold water overnight

1 medium onion, chopped

2 medium carrots, chopped

1 bay leaf

1 tablespoon, white peppercorns

200 grams, clear runny honey

50 grams, wholegrain mustard, I use grey Poupon

For The Colcannon

1 tablespoon, vegetable oil

1 medium onion, finely sliced

250 grams, mashed potato

30 grams, unsalted butter

30mls, double cream

250 grams, cabbage or kale, blanched and sliced, we use Savoy, January king, or green pointed

1 tablespoon, wholegrain mustard, again I use grey poupon mustard

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

For The Cheese Cream

450mls, double cream

1 teaspoon, garlic paste

1 bay leaf

250 grams, cheddar cheese, grated, we have used both Lancashire and Cheshire cheese

Method

For the ham hocks, rinse the ham hocks with fresh water. Place them into a large pan and cover with water.

Add the onion, carrots, and bay leaf and white peppercorns, bring to the boil reduce the heat to a simmer and simmer for two to three hours, or until the meat is tender and falling from the bone. Set aside to cool.

Preheat the oven to 200°C/400°C/Gasmark 6.

Trim the outer layer of fat from the cooled ham hocks, and then make criss-cross patterns in the remaining soft fat on the hocks using a sharp knife.

In a bowl, mix together the honey and mustard until well combined.

Line a large roasting tray with aluminium foil fill the tray with the ham hocks and the boiled vegetables spread the honey and mustard mixture all over the ham hocks then roast in the oven for 25 to 30 minutes, basting frequently with the juices that collect in the roasting tray, or until the ham is tender and completely cooked through.

Meanwhile, make colcannon, heat the oil in a frying pan over a medium heat add the onion and fry for 8 to 10 minutes, or until softened and golden.

In a large bowl, mix together the mashed potato, butter, cream, blanched cabbage and mustard until well combined and season, to taste, with salt and freshly ground black pepper.

Transfer the potato mixture to the frying pan with the onions in and press down to form a large potato cake. Fry for 4 to 5 minutes, or until crisp and golden-brown on one side turn over, using a plate if necessary to help you, and fry on the other side for a further 4 to 5 minutes, or until crisp and golden-brown on both sides.

For the cheese cream, in a separate pan, bring the double cream, garlic clove and bay leaf to the boil.

Reduce the heat to a simmer, then simmer the mixture until the volume of liquid has reduced by a third, this takes about 10 to 12 minutes.

Strain the mixture through a fine sieve and discard the garlic clove and bay leaf and return the liquid to the pan add the grated cheese and stir until completely melted.

To serve, carve the ham into thick slices, and divide equally among eight serving plates, place a spoonful of the colcannon alongside each now spoon over the cheese sauce.

Serve and Enjoy!

Notes

Side dishes don’t come more Irish than creamy colcannon; it is a traditional Irish dish mainly consisting of mashed potatoes with kale or cabbage. It is also the name of a song about that dish.

Colcannon is traditionally made from mashed potatoes, kale or cabbage, butter, salt, and pepper. It can contain other ingredients such as milk, cream, leeks, onions, chives, garlic, boiled ham, or Irish bacon. At one time it was a cheap, year-round staple food, though it is usually eaten in autumn/winter, when kale comes into season An old Irish Halloween tradition was to serve colcannon with prizes of small coins concealed in it, as the Irish and English do with Christmas pudding.

The song "Colcannon", also called "The Skillet Pot", is a traditional Irish song that has been recorded by many artists, including Mary Black. It begins:

 Did you ever eat Colcannon, made from lovely pickled cream?

 With the greens and scallions mingled like a picture in a dream.

 Did you ever make a hole on top to hold the melting flake

 Of the creamy, flavoured butter that your mother used to make?

 The chorus goes:

 Yes you did, so you did, so did he and so did I.

 And the more I think about it sure the nearer I'm to cry.

 Oh, wasn't it the happy days when troubles we had not,

 And our mothers made Colcannon in the little skillet pot.

Related articles

• Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall: The fisherman's friend sails to the rescue | Ian Tucker (guardian.co.uk)
• Channel 4's Big Fish Fight season, previews (telegraph.co.uk)
• There's something fishy about this minister: TV chef catches out politician who doesn't know his subject (dailymail.co.uk)
• Back to the market (wcs4.blogspot.com)
• Seasonal Eats: The Story of Celeriac (laist.com)

John & Maureen Glen Tags: London, Pimlico, Tachbrook, Seasonal, Recipes, Tachbrook Street Market, Jonathan Norris, Fishmongers, Butchers, Freemans, Alhayat, Greengrocers, Fruiterers, Pollock, Ireland, Irish, Hocks, Ham, Colcannon, cheese, ham, Raymond Blanc