Showing posts with label shopping. Show all posts
Showing posts with label shopping. Show all posts

Wednesday, 6 April 2011

April, What’s in Season This Month

April, one of our favourite months spring has been switched on the clocks have been put forward the days are getting longer and the sun is coming out to play a little more.

This is the month when the kitchen rouses itself, we ourselves liven up, and it is also the annual point in time when keeping it uncomplicated means just that, so little needs to be done with the fresh crops of English foodstuffs.

It depends on what the weather is like if the commencement to this brand new season is sluggish, however you can be sure that fresh young carrots and tender spinach will be in the shops about the middle of April.

Furthermore by the end of April we will have the real celebrities to look forward to; English Asparagus keep your eyes open for it in this country it only has a short 6 week season, so begin buying it as soon as you see it and don't forget that those exquisite Jersey Royals will be making their yearly debut at the end of April.


The first of the new season lamb should now be coming through we have always looked forward to the spring lamb and we both think that new season lamb from the Fylde and Morecambe Bay is superior, although when we were at Lodge Hill Mr. F used to have between 10 to 20 sheep which he kept on the game farm and every spring  we all helped with the lambing and when they were old enough all went to the butchers and some came back already for the freezer now you can’t get much organic and greener than that!


New season lamb is available from April and through the summer months, but it is at its best in June.

Lamb usually comes to market between 6 and 7 months old, with a dressed weight of between 36-50 pounds. The smallest lambs (sometimes called Paulliac Lamb), are sometimes less than 4 weeks old and weigh as little as 8 pounds.

Lamb in the United Kingdom is still called lamb until it is 12 months old then it is known as mutton, I believe that mutton is a greatly unappreciated meat, cuts of mutton are similar to those of lamb, but the meat is darker in colour and much richer in flavour.

When choosing lamb do not look for meat marbled with fat, this is not an indication of quality and tenderness as with beef. Better to look for lamb cuts with a thick, well shaped eye muscles in the loin and rib cuts, look for meat that is moist and bright, the colour depends on the age of the lamb ranging from pinkish rose to pale red, the fat should be waxy white.

Mutton is significantly underrated in this country the cuts are similar to lamb, but tend to be larger, darker in colour with richer flavour Choose mutton of a rich red brown colour; avoid any grey meat with yellowy fat. Mutton lacks the mildness and tenderness of lamb and tends to have more fat.


Definitions for lamb, hogget and mutton differ significantly between countries, below are the common definitions

  1. Baby lamb, a milk-fed lamb between six and eight weeks old
  2. Spring lamb, a milk-fed lamb, usually three to five months old, born in late winter or early spring and sold usually before July 1st
  3. Yearling lamb, a young sheep between 12 and 24 months old.
  4. Milk-fed lamb, meat from an unweaned lamb, typically 4 to 6 weeks old and weighing 5.5 to 8 kg; this is almost unavailable in countries such as the UK and the USA, where it is considered uneconomic. The flavour and texture of milk-fed lamb when grilled (such as the tiny lamb chops known as chuletillas in Spain) or roasted (lechazo asado or cordero lechal asado) is generally thought to be finer than that of older lamb. The areas in northern Spain where this can be found include Asturias, Cantabria, Castile and León, and La Rioja. Milk-fed lambs (and kids) are especially prized for Easter in Greece, when they are roasted on a spit.
  5. Hogget a young male sheep or maiden ewe having no more than two permanent incisors in wear
  6. Mutton A female (ewe) or castrated male (wether) sheep having more than two permanent incisors in wear.
  7. Salt marsh lamb the meat of sheep which graze on salt marsh in coastal estuaries that are washed by the tides and support a range of salt-tolerant grasses and herbs such as samphire, sparta grass, sorrel and sea lavender. Depending on where in the world the salt marsh is located, the nature of the plants may be subtly different. Salt marsh lamb has long been appreciated in France and is growing in popularity in the United Kingdom. Places where salt marsh lamb are reared in the United Kingdom include Harlech and the Gower Peninsula in Wales, the Somerset Levels and the Fylde coast and Morecambe Bay.

Although available, all year round, British lamb and mutton are seasonal products.

  • Spring lamb is available from early spring until the summer. It is very tender but does not have as much flavour as lamb later in the year as it has not had as much time to graze. It should be cooked simply spring lamb is fantastic for roasting simply with garlic and herbs, why not try some of these recipes;
  • Autumn lamb is available from the summer until December. It has had more time to graze and grow thus developing stronger flavours that can take spicier, more adventurous treatment
  • Lamb from Christmas until the following spring is called ‘hogget’, though few retailers and caterers use this term. Hogget has a pronounced flavour, which works well with seasonal root vegetables.
  • Mutton is at least two years old. Mutton is available year-round but is best, and most readily available, from October until March. It has a much stronger, gamier flavour than lamb. For hundreds of years, mutton was the staple meat of the British household, considered superior in texture and flavour to lamb. Changes in farming and cooking lead to mutton’s sudden decline and for the last fifty years mutton has almost disappeared from our shops and restaurants.
  • The Mutton Renaissance campaign was launched in 2004 by HRH the Prince of Wales to support British sheep farmers who were struggling to sell their older animals, and to get this delicious meat back on the nation’s plates.

Accompaniments That Go Well with Lamb and Mutton

Mint and rosemary spring to mind at once, but lamb is well-matched with many different ingredients including French mustard, tarragon, tomatoes, olive oil, aubergines, yoghurt, couscous, apricots, coriander and cumin.

Try baking with aubergines, tomatoes, courgettes, olives, and garlic for a Mediterranean twist or pot roast with root vegetables or butternut squash and red onions

Flavoured butters also work well with lamb steaks and chops make by simply softening butter and mixing through the grated rind of a lemon or lime, some thyme and rosemary, or try some chilli paste and a few leaves of freshly torn basil.

Slivers of garlic, sprigs of rosemary and/or anchovies can be pushed into slits cut in the meat. Why not try grating or grinding lemon rind, root ginger and garlic, or mint and rosemary, into a paste to fill the slits.

If roasting serve with mint sauce and red wine gravy for a yummy dish

While lamb doesn't often feature in oriental cookery, however, it's mouth-watering with soy sauce, ginger, or honey.

And finally, because of its seasonality and its mild flavour, new season lamb goes well with spring vegetables.


And don’t forget to keep an eye out for wild sea trout, which is brilliant just now, as is Monkfish, Halibut, Prawns, and Crab are all very good now, please try to avoid Turbot, Brill, Dover, and Lemon sole as they are all spawning now, so leave them alone and take advantage of the new season shellfish, April is the time for buying Brown Crab, Cockles, Conger Eel, Crab, John Dory, Lobster, Razor Clams, Salmon, Sea Bass, Sea Trout, Shrimp, Whitebait, Winkles. And Wild Salmon


As the spring sun warms the soil, we can look forward to an abundance of wonderful ingredients coming into season over the next few weeks, the first herbs are appearing now, allowing us to add some fresher flavours to our food look out for wild garlic, chives, sorrel and wild sorrel.

Leeks, wild mushrooms, Jersey Royal potatoes, radishes, spinach and watercress, broad beans, peas, asparagus, and cauliflowers will be fresh in season towards the end of British springtime.


Vegetables at Their Best

  1. Purple Sprouting Broccoli; just make certain it is very purple to make sure it is at its prime.
  2. Spring Greens; check that they are English and very green, we always say that the spring greens from Cornwall are the best with those from Lancashire a close second.
  3. Spring Onions; are really good at the moment just pick those with pale green tails.
  4. English Carrots; are now beginning to make themselves known we like to buy the small ones in bunches along with their feathery tops.
  5. British Watercress; it’s a sensation in uncomplicated salads; classy salads, with fish and with cheese, always try to avoid the plastic wrapped bunches.
  6. New Season Kale; kale is called a "super food" because it packs more nutrition per calorie than almost any other food. Unfortunately many people haven't a clue how to prepare the stuff usually seen only as garnish, follow these simple instructions for delicious, tender, steamed kale:
  • Select dark green crisp leaves.
  • Wash kale in cold water to remove sand or dirt.
  • Fold the kale in half, lengthwise, hold the base of the stem and rip the leaves from the stem.
  • Chop leaves and add to a steamer basket and place in a pan of boiling water, filled just to the base of the basket, and cover.
  • Steam for about 4 to 5 minutes, then check for tenderness.
  • Kale cools rapidly, so enjoy immediately.
  • You can eat it plain, spritz it with soy sauce, sauté it with garlic and olive oil, or toss it into soups.
  • Use it in place of cooked spinach in your favourite recipes.

Meat, Poultry and Game at Its Best

As we said new season lamb is now available and is absolutely fantastic but it will be at its very best in June, Beef, Pork, Chicken, and Wood Pigeon are still all very good.


Fish and Seafood at Its Best

Fishing has been improving with the better weather conditions, although the tides have been very big, which affects the practicality of netted catches especially obvious in smaller ports like Looe.

Lobster prices have been mulishly high this year for our own British caught lobsters, as ever, you can get cheaper from elsewhere, although they will be of the Canadian or American type and apart from being in general awfully small, they will have travelled countless miles to reach your plate.

The West Country boats are starting to land more and you can expect prices to start to come down, having said all that, Cornish Lobster is scrumptious and worth paying that bit more for as an indulgence.

Plenty of Bass and Pollack are being landed, but the Plaice are also terrific at this time of year and the first landings of Wild Black Bream have started, while regular landings are a couple of weeks off it looks like we are going to have plenty to go around.

All the usual suspects, Brown Crab, Cockles, Conger Eel, Crab, John Dory, Lobster, Razor Clams, Salmon, Sea Bass, Sea Trout, Shrimp, Whitebait, Winkles, and Wild Salmon are very good, so please support your local fishmonger and eat fish.

The Latest Grocery News for insert month 2011

  • Pig farmers are demanding a fair price for British Pork and are urging national retailers to sign up to a voluntary labelling initiative. With rising cereal prices and increased fuel costs, farmers are losing money on every pig produced. So far Morrison's has been praised for their commitment to the supply chain but the industry is urging Tesco and Asda to follow suit in selling British produce rather than relying on cheap imports, which are often produced under far less stringent animal welfare conditions.
  • Asda has pledged to work with its suppliers to ensure none of its products will contain egg from battery cages as of next year. All eggs in shell sold by Asda are British, making it relatively easy to verify which rearing systems they come from, but products using liquid egg can be trickier, given EU cross-border trade. Sainsbury's has also pledged that all suppliers will be legally required to use non-battery eggs by 2012.
  • KFC is set to become the first fast-food chain to be certified by the Red Tractor assurance scheme. KFC already source their chicken-on-the-bone products from Red Tractor certified British suppliers, but the company itself has until now not been certified.
  • The Cornish Pastie has been give 'protected geographical indication' status by the European Commission; joining the 42 other British protected products such as Melton Mowbray pork pies and Arbroath Smokies.
  • Sainsbury's has teamed up with Ladies in Beef to help promote the new 'Great British Beef Week' which runs from 29-30 April. The retailer will offer on-pack promotions during this time.
  • When buying British make sure you read the small print as almost a fifth of foods labelled as ‘local' on sale are making the claim falsely, a study by The Local Government Regulation has revealed. Examples include 'Welsh lamb' from New Zealand, 'Somerset butter' from Scotland, and 'Devon ham' from Denmark. Restaurants have the highest incidence of false claims with 19 per cent, while manufacturers had the fewest with 11 per cent.
  • Asda and Defra are working with key players in the UK dairy industry to create a new milk roadmap. Dairy 2020 will build on the work of the Dairy Supply Chain Forum's Milk Roadmap – the industry's environmental sustainability strategy - but will also include social and economic sustainability.
  • Finally, according to a Tesco survey French food is still the fastest growing cuisine in the UK, with a recent 27 per cent increase in French ready meal sales. Chinese cuisine is close behind in second place with British cuisine in third. So come on everyone, buy British!

Dates for Your Diary:

Spring 2011 - Pimlico Food Festival at Tachbrook Street Market


Local Shopping

Tachbrook Street Market (2)Tachbrook Street Market

Address: Tachbrook Street, SW1

Trading hours: Monday to Saturday: 8am to 6pm

Nearest tube: Victoria or Pimlico

Bus: 2, 24, 36, 185, 436

Open every day except Sunday, the number of stalls in this ancient street market increases as the week moves forwards, the market offers a wide array of goods from home furnishings and gardening equipment, to fruit and veg, fresh meat, fish, shellfish and bread and cakes, the market is home to an array of events counting late night shopping, gourmet lunchtime offers, ‘Fashion Thursdays’ and it will be hosting a brilliant Christmas market. Managed by Westminster Artisans Ltd on behalf of Westminster Council it is set to be a community hub thanks to its lively diverse array of stalls with scrumptious international hot food the paella is superb, fresh food, chocolate, cheese, olive oil, bread, funky fashion, and lots more. Discover different stalls on different days.

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imageOn Sonny’s Stall on Tachbrook Street Market

Sonny’s stall once again was a picture it is great to see such fresh produce full of lively colours, especially the Rhubarb it really looked vibrant and cooked up a treat when we made one of our favourite puddings so what else was on offer?

Well there were Apples English Braeburns and Bramleys, Artichokes, Beets, English Broccoli, Cabbage, Cauliflower, Courgettes, English King Edward Potatoes, Fennel, Field Mushrooms, Leeks, Mache (Lambs Lettuce), Parsnips, Purple Sprouting Broccoli, Radish, Watercress, you can plainly see that all of what was available was in first-rate condition.

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imageOur Local Butchers have been getting in

The lamb is some of the best we have seen and his beef is well hung, Scottish and the steaks we had were absolutely great, the pork is outdoor reared and has a great taste with the fat to meat ratio spot on.

The corn-fed chickens looked plump with a nice colour to them; this butcher is very proud of his offerings and has every right to be so.


imageOur Local Fishmonger Jon Norris on Tachbrook Street Market.

Once more Jon has brought to market an incredible selection of fish and shellfish including some rope grown mussels from the Shetlands (see below)

He was very busy again this week and yet again we see more and more people queuing up for his produce.

Taking advantage of all that fishing in British waters can turn out, he had to offer Cornish Brill, Clams, Cod fillets, Cod steaks, Crab whole and dressed, Haddock, Cornish Hake steaks, Halibut, John Dory, Lemon Sole, Megrim Sole, Dover Sole, Gilthead Bream, Cornish Gurnard, grey Mullet, Lobster, Line Caught Mackerel, Monkfish, Cornish Octopus, there was Plaice from Scotland so plump and sweet, Prawns in the shell, there were Native Oysters, Rock Oysters, Cornish Scallops, wild Scottish Salmon, wild Sea Bass, Skate, Sprats, Squid, Turbot, and Cornish Whiting.

And remember almost all Jon’s fish is sourced from around the Cornish, Devon and Scottish coasts and his prices are so reasonable you have got to give this gifted and extraordinary fishmonger a try, you won’t be sorry, I promise, just see for yourselves with the pictures below!

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Mussels are truly one of nature’s most delightful delicacies; they are extremely high in proteins, calcium, and iron while being low in fat and they are low in calories they contain a number of vitamins and minerals and are easily digested, not to mention they are decidedly inexpensive and good value for money.

They are also excellent for your heart, containing the highest amount of omega-3 of any shellfish (this is the naturally occurring fatty acid that is believed to lower blood pressure).

The protecting shells of the blue mussel are smooth, glossy, and dark blue or navy in colour, whilst the juicy meat contained within may range from a bright orange to a pale cream.

The difference in colour of the meat has nothing to do with a difference in taste, although some do say that the orange meat is fleshier and tastier.

The orange meat is found in the shell of a mature female mussel, whilst the pale cream meat mussels are males or immature females.

Mussels can grow in the wild or as is most popular nowadays, due to a huge demand and consumption, they can also be cultured or farmed.

BUYING

Look for bright, clean, tightly closed unbroken shells. Fresh mussels smell briny-fresh, not ‘fishy’. When buying mussels you need to allow at least 1 pint (570 ml) per person for a first course, and 1½ to 2 pints (about 1 litre) for a main course. That may seem a lot, but some will have to be discarded and, once they have been shelled, mussels are very small and light.

STORING

Best eaten within a day of buying

PREPARING AND COOKING

Don't be tricked by how upmarket they look, mussels are the definitive uncomplicated seafood. Clean them, sauté them, steam them and hey up you'll have a dish everyone will be wowed there are many ways to serve the mussels, but the most classic is Moules Mariniere the mussels are offered in a sauce of white wine, shallots, parsley, and butter.

The ritual of cleaning and To Prepare them sounds more bother than it actually is. When you get them home, plonk the mussels straightaway into a sinkful of cold water, first of all throw out any that float to the top, then leave the cold tap running over them while you take a small knife and scrape off all the barnacles and pull off the little hairy beards. Discard any mussels that are broken, and any that are open and refuse to close tight when given a sharp tap with a knife. After you’ve cleaned each one, place it straight in another bowl of clean water.

When they’re all in, swirl them around in three or four more changes of cold water to get rid of any lingering bits of grit or sand. Leave the cleaned mussels in cold water until you’re ready to cook them. As an extra safety precaution, always check mussels again after cooking this time discarding any whose shells haven’t opened.

You can in addition find mussels served with sauces made with beer, or cream, or vegetable stock.

For the greatest authenticity, use a shell to crack open the mussels, not your fork.

Did I say that they are very good for you an 85 gram portion of cooked blue mussels contain 20 grams of protein and only 147 calories; it is rich in iron, manganese, phosphorous, selenium, zinc and vitamins C and B12. Mussels are low in fat, only containing 0.7 grams of saturated fat in an 85 gram portion. They are, though an extremely rich source of Omega-3 fatty acids, which are found in oily fish and other foods but are not produced by the body. The consumption of Omega-3 fatty acids helps prevent cardiovascular and heart disease and is an important part of a healthy diet, promoting a healthy brain as well as a healthy body. Mussels in fact contain higher levels of Omega-3 fatty acids than any other shellfish.

Jon’s tips to buying fish and shellfish;

 Fresh Whole Fish

  1. The eyes should be clear and convex, not sunken
  2. The flesh should be firm and resilient to finger pressure
  3. The fish should smell freshly and lightly of the sea
  4. Don’t buy fish with a strong ‘fishy’ or sulphurous odour, or that smells of ammonia.
  5. Oily fish like herring, mackerel, and salmon should have a light, fresh oil smell, like linseed oil. If they smell of rancid oil, don’t buy.

Fresh Fillets

  1. The surface of the fillet should be moist, with no signs of discolouration.
  2. The texture should be firm, with no mushiness. Some separation of the muscle flakes (caused by the filleting process) is completely normal, but it shouldn’t be excessive.
  3. As with whole fish, the smell should be fresh and light, with no ‘off’ odours.
  4. Live bi-valves (including mussels, clams and oysters)
  5. The general rule of not buying bi-valves during any month spelled without an ‘r’ (i.e. May to August) still holds true, as this is the spawning season and quality will be poorer. When raw, the shells should be closed tight. Any slightly open shells that don’t close up in response to a few light taps should be discarded. When cooked, the shells should open – discard any that don’t.

In The Garden

Not a lot happening yet, we are still waiting word for when they are going to put the new windows in so realistically we cannot start anything on our balcony for this year. We will of course plants some salads and our herbs but that will be it for this year.


Recipes for April

Potted Crab

Push the boat out with the respected English custom of potting seafood, combine the tender, sweet flesh of crab with sherry, herbs and lemon juice, its same idea as potted shrimp, but used for delectable crab meat using the most superb white claw meat and creamy brown meat, mixing with spices then topping it with the finest English, Welsh or Cornish butter.

Serves / Makes:        2 large ramekins, 4 small ramekins

Prep-Time:                 10 minutes

Cook-Time:                15 minutes plus 2 hours chilling


You Will Need

150 grams, white crab meat

150 grams, brown crab meat

1 banana shallot, peeled and finely chopped

2 tablespoons, dry sherry

1 pinch, cayenne pepper

1 pinch, ground mace

1 pinch, freshly grated nutmeg

150 grams, unsalted butter, cubed

1 ½ teaspoons, anchovy essence

1 teaspoon, lemon juice, plus extra if needed

Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

Extra butter for sealing the ramekins


Method

Start off by placing the chopped shallot, sherry, and spices in a saucepan, bring to a simmer, then boil rapidly until the liquid has reduced by at least half, it should only take about 2 minutes.

Next, stir in the butter; when melted, turn the heat down, and simmer gently for 12 minutes, stirring from time to time, remove from the heat and allow to cool then using a sieve over a bowl, pour through the cooled spiced butter and set the bowl over another bowl filled with ice then, using an electric hand whisk, whisk until the butter becomes thick and creamy, but not hard.

Now mix in the crab meat, anchovy essence, lemon juice, salt, and pepper spoon this mixture into ramekins, cover the surface with melted butter to seal off the air and cover with cling film, and chill for 2 hours.

To serve remove the potted crab from the fridge about half an hour before serving we like to serve ours with a little mixed salad, toasted granary bread or melba toast.


Greek Aromatic Roast Lamb

What a magnificent dish, more or less identical to the one Maureen and I used to have at the Bakery Restaurant on the Greek island of Spetses (This restaurant is on the top floor above one of the island's more popular patisseries). We tried it at Wilton Lodge for a dinner party, which was a triumph, so much, so that in the winter/spring of 1992 at Norwood West, Palm Springs it was a great favourite.

Serves / Makes:        8 servings

Prep-Time:                 4 hours to 24 hours

Cook-Time:                2 hours


You Will Need

2 kilograms, leg of lamb,

1.2 kilos, potatoes, about 4 to 6 ounce each, we use a variety called Lady Balfour, available from Sainsbury’s or Desiree

1 whole, lemon,

2 tablespoons, honey, preferably Greek

2 tablespoons, olive oil,

30 grams, butter,

2 sprigs, fresh rosemary,

1 sprig, fresh thyme,

1 sprig, oregano, I like to use the Greek or Italian dried oregano


Method

Put the leg of lamb into a large roasting pan. Bruise the leaves of the sprigs of rosemary, thyme, and oregano and sprinkle them over the meat, add plenty of pepper and 1 tablespoon of honey. Rub the mixture into the meat with your hands then rub half a lemon over the joint, squeezing the juice on to the meat as you do so. Do not add any salt. Leave to marinate for 4 to 24 hours. 

Peel and quarter the potatoes, then arrange them in a single layer round the lamb.

Squeeze lemon juice over the potatoes, use at least half a lemon, or up to one and a half lemons for a strong lemony flavour.

Carefully pour ¼ pint of water into a corner of the roasting pan, then sprinkle over the potatoes and lamb about 2 tablespoons chopped fresh rosemary, at least 1 teaspoon each fresh chopped thyme and oregano, and some salt and pepper.

Drizzle on 1 to 1 ½ teaspoons of honey and 1 tablespoon of olive oil, then dot with 1 oz of butter.

Bake at 425°f/220°c/gas mark 6 for a further 1 to 1 to 1¼ hours

The ingredients will become golden and will caramelize to a rich brown in places.

Lift the meat and turn the potatoes occasionally, and if necessary, add a little boiling water to the pan to prevent drying out.

Serve and Enjoy!


Thyme Steamed Mussels

A quick, easy, flavoursome and attractive dish, the bacon and leeks truly enhance the mussels.

I have already mentioned that we both have a weakness for mussels and that I would be including our favourite ways of serving them and once again this recipe is no exception.

In the 1970’s when we served fresh mussels at the Willow Tree Restaurant, Bolton-le-Sands, this was the dish that got the most praise and using the freshest mussels from Morecambe Bay, the thyme which grew in the garden and serving it with the watercress that grew in the stream that ran through the property it was no wonder it got the praise it did. Now when we decide to have mussels for a meal we do have a little difficulty in choosing which recipe to use, Maureen has her favourite and I have mine, oh what a hard life we lead‼

Serves / Makes:        2 main course servings, or 4 starters

Prep-Time:                 8 minutes

Cook-Time:                10 minutes


YOU WILL NEED;

1 kilo, fresh mussels

6 rashers, smoked streaky bacon, chopped into small pieces

2 baby leeks, sliced on the diagonal

30 grams, butter

1 red onion, peeled and chopped

3 cloves garlic, peeled and chopped

250mls, white wine

4 sprigs fresh thyme

250mls, double cream

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

20 grams, freshly chopped parsley, we sometimes use coriander or a favourite herb to use is chervil


METHOD;

Wash the mussels in a colander to remove any dirt or grime. Pick through the mussels and remove the beard Discard any which does not close when tapped.

Heat half the butter in a pan, and then sizzle the bacon for 3 to 4 minutes until starting to brown.

Add the leeks, onion, and garlic and, then sweat everything together for 4 to 5 minutes until soft.

Turn the heat up high, add the mussels’ thyme and wine, then cover and cook for 4 to 5 minutes, shaking the pan occasionally, until the mussels until the mussels begin to open.

Add the cream, seasoning and parsley, stirring the ingredients with a spoon heat through making sure all the mussels is open Discard any that remains closed.

Spoon the mussels and the other bits into a dish, then place the pan back on the heat and boil the juices for 1 min with the rest of the butter.

Divide the mussels between two bowls if serving as a main course 4 bowls for a starter and pour the sauce left in the pan over them.

Serve with crusty bread to mop up all the juices and Enjoy!


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Sunday, 6 March 2011

March, What’s in Season This Month

In March, the weather starts to warm up (or so it should be doing), the time from now until about the middle of May is a tricky one for the shopper, grower, and greengrocer, winter vegetables are fading out whereas the spring veggies haven’t so far really got under way, however there is plenty of purple sprouting broccoli around so make use of it. The commencement of the purple sprouting broccoli season heralds a much wanted addition to the winter vegetable enjoyment.

Merely steamed or boiled, this lively cousin of broccoli can be used in the same way it is leafier and deeper in colour than Calabrese; it always adds vitality and crunch to vegetable dishes and it goes well with almost any fish or meat dish. Broccoli is a cruciferous plant, from the same genus as the cabbage, and is associated to the cauliflower; cruciferous foods are nowadays hailed as having a number of significant health benefits. Purple Sprouting Broccoli contains the phytochemical sulphoraphane, which is thought to help prevent cancer. Furthermore it could provide resistance against heart disease, osteoporosis, and diabetes. It is packed with vitamin C and is a good source of caretenoids, iron, folic acid, calcium, fibre, and vitamin A.

Did I mention that it tastes great just simply steamed and served with melted butter and a squeeze of lemon juice?

As with the British asparagus season, the Jersey Royals season and the first of the British Artichokes we always look forward to the first of the purple sprouting broccoli, in our opinion events like these are what makes British seasonal produce the finest in the world.


Even so we are seeing more and more spring vegetables in the markets and some supermarkets earlier than in the past (Climate Change?), so with excited expectation our thoughts are turning to lighter dishes as we see Chicory, Chives, Mint, Parsley, Radishes, Rosemary, Sorrel, Spring Greens, Thyme, and Watercress coming into their season, and Cornish Spring greens are also becoming more plentiful and are very tasty jam packed full of flavour and very sweet, the two biggest enemies of cabbage are water and overcooking, the one thing you don’t want to do is boil it to death in a large saucepan of water. Simply remove any damaged outer leaves, cut it in quarters, removing the tough white ‘core’ in the middle, and slice it finely then you can either stir-fry it in a wok with oil, a little water and soy sauce or tip it into a saucepan with about 3 cm boiling water and cook it fast for about 3 minutes, turning it over as you go. Drain it thoroughly, add a good chunk of butter, and season with salt and plenty of freshly ground black pepper. A small to medium size cabbage will easily serve four persons.

In the spring month of March (yes it’s a spring month), Saint David’s day proclaims the month of March, and with St Patrick's Day on the 17th, now is the time to think what we can be doing with all those tasty expected spring veggies, Lincolnshire starts to harvest carrots, beetroot, purple sprouting broccoli and calabrese broccoli as do other regions of Britain, so make the most from the first bloom.


New season's artichokes from Italy, Cyprus, and Egypt are making their first appearance on the shelves, together with the first of the tomatoes with taste from Sicily and the black volcanic soil of Tenerife and Fuerteventura. Fast on their heels will be new potatoes from around the Mediterranean, asparagus from the Murcia and Valencia provinces in Spain, and strawberries from Huelva in Andalucia.


Leeks are good in early spring, and we like to use them, not only as vegetables to go together with poultry, meat and fish, but in soups, salads and tarts for first courses we like to lightly braise baby leeks as a lovely light side dish.

Don’t be afraid to buy them loose and covered with dirt the taste is much better than ones that have been washed and pre-packed.

Just cut off the top half of the green leaves and remove the root and any damaged outer leaves, cut vertically down the leek almost to the base and wash thoroughly between the leaves with cold running water slice the leeks thickly and wash again then cook in a little butter and oil. They also make superb soups and we think they are very good in egg and cheese dishes.


Tasty tender spring carrots, you can get a good sized carrot enough to make a salad for under 15p which makes it a brilliant student buy. Even organic ones which generally have much more flavour are affordable. Use them raw and freshly grated or just slice them, toss them in a pan with a little oil and melted butter, season them with salt, pepper and a pinch of ground cumin or coriander, add a couple of tablespoons of water, cover the pan with a lid or a piece of foil and let them cook very slowly in their own juices for about 20 minutes. They also make great soup and are a must for casseroles stews and stir-fries
The one (and only) awful feature about the appearance of spring is that our beloved native mussels are off the seasonal menu until September we still have the rope grown imported mussels but they are not quite the same so, fill up on these juicy morsels while you can native oysters are now becoming more difficult to find and will soon be out of season however the pacific or rock oyster will always be a good substitute (just about) as they offer smaller portions with a more subtle taste.


Fish And Shellfish At Their Best This Month Are:

Brill, Clams, Cockles, Cod, Conger Eel, Crab, Dabs, Dover Sole, Eel, Elvers, Haddock, Halibut, Hake, John Dory, Langoustine, Lemon Sole, Lobster, Mackerel, Monkfish, Plaice, Pollack, Scottish Wild Salmon is back in season, Sardines, Scallops, Sea Bream, Sea Trout, Skate, Squid, Turbot, Whitebait, and Winkles.


Vegetables At Their Best This Month Are:

Beetroot, Brussels Sprouts, Carrots, Cauliflower, Celeriac, Celery, Chicory, Horseradish, Jerusalem Artichoke, Kale, Kohlrabi, Leeks, Onions, Parsnips, Potatoes (new), Purple Sprouting Broccoli, Radishes, Rhubarb, Rocket, Salsify, Shallots, Spinach, Spring Greens, Swede and Turnips.


Fruit At Their Best This Month Are:

Apples, Forced Rhubarb, Pears


Meat, Poultry, and Game This Month;

Beef, Chicken, Duck, and Pork are all very good and we are eagerly waiting for the first of British Spring Lamb, make the most of Rabbit this month wild rabbit meat, which is leaner and tastier than the farmed kind, has a wonderful delicate, gamey taste, very different from splendidly flavoured hare. Local Rabbit dishes reveal the fact that rabbit is very flexible and works well with those flavours used in chicken dishes, such as mustard and cream, tomato and herbs, and believe it or not chilli, I have had some superb rabbit dishes in Mexico, Turkey, Venison and Wood Pigeon are still good.


The Latest Grocery News for March 2011

Bringing you the hottest news on products in the high street, markets, corner stores, supermarkets and other major items of interest about British food; here is our analysis of what we think is of interest.

clip_image001 Following on from channel 4’s fish fight campaign sales of sustainable fish species such as Atlantic Pollock or Coley have risen. Sainsbury's say sales of Pollack have jumped 167 per cent and Waitrose state an increase of 163 per cent on Dover sole. The campaign has even encouraged Waitrose to start new fish selections like Sprats and Welsh flounder.


clip_image001[4] Asda and Tesco's have been criticised for rejecting home produced pork and chicken in support of cheap imports. An NFU Scotland investigation found that Practically all' Asda's bacon is imported, as are their gammon and bacon joints, while its value range of pork chops is a mix of French and German. A recent 3 for £10 offer in Tesco was on Dutch chicken and pork and no British bacon appeared to be had. In contrast Morrisons was found to continue to demonstrate a substantial allegiance to Scottish and British produce.


clip_image001[5] Sainsbury's is gearing up for a major push on regional foods. New signage, such as local images and claims about the products and number of farms involved, has been rolled out to stores in Northern Ireland, Scotland, and Wales this month, with plans for Devon and Cornwall to follow in the next few months. Sainsbury's currently sells about 3,000 regional lines.


clip_image001[8] Tesco has started a new website about the local foods it sells in an attempt to boost online sales of locally sourced products. The site will display all Tesco’s suppliers within 50 miles of your nearest store and gives you the choice to change this to either 30 or 100 miles. The site what's more permits you to propose a supplier as well as letting producers put themselves forward as probable suppliers. Click here to visit the site.

clip_image001[9] A group of 40 Yorkshire based farmers are launching the first ever regional frozen pea brand, Yorkshire Peas


clip_image001[10] Blueberries have overtaken raspberries as the UK's second favourite fresh berry. Strawberries remain the UK's best-selling fresh berries, but shoppers bought 11.4 per cent more blueberries last year than previous while volume sales of raspberries fell 12.9 per cent.


clip_image001[11] The British Beekeeper's Association fear we may lose all our bees within a decade if we are not careful. Honey bees are essential for the pollination of nuts and berries and play varying roles in pollinating apples, onions, broccoli, cabbage, sprouts, courgettes, peppers, aubergines, cucumbers, tomatoes, and broad beans.


clip_image001[12] US cereal maker Kellogg has said that it will support the development of sustainable palm oil by purchasing GreenPalm certificates to offset all of its palm oil use.


clip_image001[13] Last but not least elevated worldwide wheat costs are a massive expenditure for farmers using wheat-based grain to feed their animals. If the meats on the shelves are a few pennies more please don't be tempted to switch to a low-priced imported substitute. Join in supporting our farming industry and buy British!


Seasonal foods at their best to look out for in the supermarkets this month:

Vegetables: Beetroot, Brussels Sprouts, Carrots, Cauliflower, Celeriac, Celery, Chicory, Horseradish, Jerusalem Artichoke, Kale, Kohlrabi, Leeks, Onions, Parsnips, Potatoes (Maincrop), Purple Sprouting Broccoli, Radishes, Rhubarb, Rocket, Salsify, Shallots, Spinach, Swede and Turnips

Fruit: Apples and Pears

Herbs: Chives, Coriander, Mushrooms (Cultivated), and Parsley (Curly)

Meat: Beef, Chicken, Guinea Fowl, Hare, Mallard, Partridge, Pork, Rabbit, Turkey, Venison, and Wood Pigeon

Fish: Brill, Clams, Cockles, Conger Eel, Crab, Dab, Dover Sole, Eel, Haddock, Halibut, Hake, John Dory, Langoustine, Lemon Sole, Lobster, Mackerel, Mussels, Oysters, Salmon, Scallops, Shrimp, Skate, Turbot, Whitebait and Winkles


Dates for Your Diary:

Spring 2011 - Pimlico Food Festival at Tachbrook Street Market

23rd April to 21st June 2011 - British Asparagus Festival, The town of Evesham is launching the world’s, first-ever Asparapancake Race as a prelude to the British Asparagus Festival which runs from 23rd April to 21st June. Evesham will host the race at 11am on Shrove Tuesday and participants, including Gus the Asparagus Man, will all be sporting green in tribute to this special vegetable. Local celebrity chef, Felice Tocchini, will be cooking up the pancakes for the race which will incorporate – you’ve guessed it - asparagus.

12 - 13 March, World of Women Festival, Southbank centre, London

Listen to Fatima Ali and Harriet Boatemaa, two cocoa farmers from Kuapa Kokoo co-operative in Ghana (which owns Divine Chocolate); speak at the World of Women Festival (WOW) at the Southbank Centre in London. Fatima Ali at 29 is the youngest person ever to be voted onto Kuapa Kokoo’s National Executive, while Harriet Boatemaa, at 27, has aspirations to be the co-operative President so she can inspire other young people to stay in villages and farm rather than migrate to the city in search of non-existent jobs.

18 – 27 March, Dine on Deeside, towns and village across Deeside.

This is a new foodie event which celebrates passion for regional cuisine. Royal Deeside and the Cairngorms produce is some of the finest quality in the UK and chefs from towns and villages across this beautiful area (including Ballater, Braemar, Banchory and Aboyne) will be serving up seasonal spring menus of everything from rustic bistro to fine dining. Special menus in cafes, restaurants, hotels, and bars will be on offer in price bands – - up to £10; £11 to £20; £21 to £30 and over £30

18 – 20 March, Cheese and Wine Festival, the Southbank Centre, London

This gastronomic delight of an event is now in its third year and is going from strength to strength. The weekend will host a whole array of cheese and wine specialists giving talks and demonstrations including Patricia Michelson founder of La Fromagerie, the Guardian’s wine writer Fiona Beckett, French Chef and Baker Richard Bertinet, renowned restaurateurs’ such as Henry Harris from Racine, Luisa Welch and John Quilter; and specialist premium suppliers such as Vintage Roots, Casa Leal and Auswineonline. Don’t miss it!


Local Shopping

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Tachbrook Street Market Address: Tachbrook Street, SW1

Trading hours: Monday to Saturday: 8am to 6pm

Nearest tube: Victoria or Pimlico

Bus: 2, 24, 36, 185, 436

Open every day except Sunday, the number of stalls in this ancient street market increases as the week moves forwards, the market offers a wide array of goods from home furnishings and gardening equipment, to fruit and veg, fresh meat, fish, shellfish and bread and cakes, the market is home to an array of events counting late night shopping, gourmet lunchtime offers, ‘Fashion Thursdays’.

Managed by Westminster Artisans Ltd on behalf of Westminster Council it is set to be a community hub thanks to its lively diverse array of stalls with scrumptious international hot food the paella is superb, fresh food, chocolate, cheese, olive oil, bread, funky fashion, and lots more. Discover different stalls on different days.


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On Sonny’s Stall on Tachbrook Street Market

Sonny’s stall this week again was a picture it is great to see such fresh produce full of lively colours, especially the Rhubarb it really looked vibrant and cooked up a treat when we made one of our favourite puddings so what else was on offer?

Well there were Apples English Braeburns and Bramleys, Artichokes, Beets, English Broccoli, Butternut Squash, Cabbage, Cauliflower, Courgettes, English King Edward Potatoes, Fennel, Field Mushrooms, Leeks, Mache (Lambs Lettuce), Parsnips, Purple Sprouting Broccoli, Radish, Watercress, you can plainly see that all of what was available was in first-rate condition.


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Our Local Butchers have been getting in

Beef, lamb, and pork is good this month and our local butcher Freemans has some ox-tails and beef brisket in that is just so tasty his fore-rib of beef looked just about perfectly hung and at under £14 per kilo is probably the cheapest in London you really must give the classically trained butcher a go and just to see a real traditional butcher shop is a treat.

His special offer this week was corn-fed chicken leg portions at half price and very tasty they were too.


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Our Local Fishmonger Jon Norris on Tachbrook Street Market

Once again Jon has brought to market a fantastic array of fish and shellfish including some plump tasty razor clams (see below)

Every time we go to his stall we see more and more people queuing up for his wares and this week was no exception especially as he had plainly been taking advantage of all that fishing in British waters can produce.

He put on good show as usual with Cornish Brill, Clams including Razor Clams, Cod fillets, Cod steaks, Crab, Haddock, Cornish Hake, Halibut, John Dory, Lemon Sole, Megrim Sole, Dover Sole, Gilthead Bream, Cornish Gurnard, grey Mullet, Lobster, Scottish Mackerel, rope grown Mussels from the Shetland Isles, Monkfish, Cornish Octopus, there was Plaice from Scotland so plump and sweet, Prawns in the shell, there were Native Oysters, Rock Oysters, Scallops from the Isle of Man, wild Sea Bass, Skate, Sprats, Squid, Turbot, and Cornish Whiting.

And remember almost all Jon’s fish is sourced from around the Cornish, Devon and Scottish coasts and his prices are so reasonable you have got to give this gifted and extraordinary fishmonger a try, you won’t be sorry, I promise.


Razor Clams

Clams, Razor ShellFor the most part people couldn’t describe a razor clam, as they can be tricky to find, but like the name suggests they are shaped like an old-fashioned cut-throat razor and when we were small and went to Wales on holiday I can remember my father warning us to be careful not to cut ourselves on the razor sharp shells of this strange looking creature.

This extraordinary mollusc lives nestled in the sand and is collected by hand. The razor clam can reach 25 cm (10 inches) in length and is usually six times longer than it is wide, the Atlantic razor clam is sharp enough to cut skin, while other variety have an oval shape.

They are extremely easy to cook and have a superbly rich flavour the only way I can describe it is as a fusion of cockles and scallops that’s sweet and salty all at once, which means with a little seasoning of some lemon juice and maybe a splash of Tabasco they are simply superb.

Buying, Most likely to be found January and early summer, I mainly see them on the stall of my local fishmonger Jon Norris and the one place I see them all year round although infrequently is in oriental supermarkets.

They will usually be sold in bunches of half a dozen or so, and must be alive, this is easy to check Many of the clams will have extended themselves beyond the reach of their shells and will retract when picked up and they should smell of the seaside but not be pungently fishy.

Storing, It is always best to use bivalves the day you purchase them but if you need to keep them, wrap razor clams in a damp tea towel and leave them in the fridge. It is an error to soak all clams and cockles overnight as you can drown them.
Preparing and Cooking, It's best to give them a quick wash first under cold running water then lay them on a baking or roasting tray and give them a very quick go under a hot grill for a minute or so This should jolt open the shells as soon as they open remove them from under the grill.

As soon as they are cool enough to handle, take out the long, white, meaty clam. The digger (the dark bit at one end) needs to be cut off, as it is always gritty. You might also slice the clam open lengthways to check for sand.

Once they are clean, the clams can to go back under the grill, back in their shells and with another two minutes of cooking and they should be ready.

  • As I said before, razor clams love a simple seasoning a classic recipe, popular in France and Spain, is to serve them plainly grilled, in the shells, with sizzling garlic butter spooned over at the last minute.
  • Salsa Verde or Aioli set off all clams beautifully.
  • If you don’t feel like grilling the clams, try steaming them open in a covered pan just add a bunch of razors, a tablespoon of olive oil and about half a glass of dry white wine or cider for tender clams in a mariniere style sauce within two minutes.
  • Cooking in water seasoned with salt and pepper takes about 10 minutes for 30 or so razor clams (enough for 2 people).
  • Cook in boiling water, and then finish in a frying pan with cream, garlic, and chives and serve with tagliatelle or rice.

Jon’s tips to buying fish and shellfish;

Fresh Whole Fish

  1. The eyes should be clear and convex, not sunken
  2. The flesh should be firm and resilient to finger pressure
  3. The fish should smell freshly and lightly of the sea
  4. Don’t buy fish with a strong ‘fishy’ or sulphurous odour, or that smells of ammonia.
  5. Oily fish like herring, mackerel, and salmon should have a light, fresh oil smell, like linseed oil. If they smell of rancid oil, don’t buy.

Fresh Fillets

  1. The surface of the fillet should be moist, with no signs of discolouration.
  2. The texture should be firm, with no mushiness. Some separation of the muscle flakes (caused by the filleting process) is completely normal, but it shouldn’t be excessive.
  3. As with whole fish, the smell should be fresh and light, with no ‘off’ odours.
  4. Live bi-valves (including mussels, clams and oysters)
  5. The general rule of not buying bi-valves during any month spelled without an ‘r’ (i.e. May to August) still holds true, as this is the spawning season and quality will be poorer. When raw, the shells should be closed tight. Any slightly open shells that don’t close up in response to a few light taps should be discarded. When cooked, the shells should open – discard any that don’t.


In The Garden

Nothing happening on our little balcony garden at the moment, although we are still cutting Parsley, Thyme, Rosemary and Sage, it will soon be time to have a good clean down and sow our salads, radish and spring onion seeds outside and tomato seeds inside.


Recipe for March

Rhubarb Sponge Pudding

Perfect for a Sunday lunch served with rich, smooth, velvety custard or thick Jersey cream, Maureen can’t remember when she first made this it was probably at home in Longridge when she was small, Maureen says “ I have been making for a long time and John calls it real comfort food and always asks for it when the new season rhubarb appears”.

Serves / Makes: 4 servings, Prep-Time: 15 minutes, Cook-Time: 45 minutes

You Will Need

  1. 100 grams soft butter
  2. 100 grams caster sugar
  3. 2 large eggs
  4. 100 grams self-raising flour, sifted
  5. 500 grams ripe rhubarb stalks
  6. 100 grams, extra caster sugar

Method

  • Heat the oven to 180°C/ 360°F/gas mark 4.
  • Beat the butter and caster sugar in a bowl until light and creamy add the eggs one at a time, beating well. Gently fold in the sifted flour until you have a batter of dropping consistency.
  • Cut the rhubarb stalks into 2cm lengths; discarding any, leaves arrange loosely in a buttered one-litre pie or baking dish and scatter with the 100 grams of extra caster sugar.
  • Spoon the batter mixture on top of the fruit in clumps then smooth out the clumps to cover the rhubarb bake for 45 minutes, or until the topping is golden.
  • Serve with rich cream or with velvety smooth custard and enjoy


Notes

The outlandishly coloured vegetable that thinks it's a fruit. Rhubarb makes deliciously comforting puddings but its sharpness works extremely well with meat and oily fish dishes (the duck recipe below is a resounding success). Forced rhubarb (grown in the dark) has yellowish leaves and usually appears in January. The field-grown variety replaces it around April and is less tender but often more flavourful. Rhubarb was used as a medicine in ancient China. It was brought to Europe by Marco Polo and has been eaten as a food since the eighteenth century. Rhubarb is a good source of fibre and contains moderate levels of vitamin C and calcium. Studies have linked the fibre from rhubarb in the diet with reduced cholesterol levels. When buying choose crisp, firm, plump stalks with good colour. When kept in the fridge, fresh rhubarb will stay in reasonable condition for 1-2 weeks. Raw and cooked rhubarb freeze well. To prepare, wash and trim both ends of the stalks, and discard the poisonous leaves. Rhubarb, in particular the later field-grown variety, is very tart and requires considerable sweetening.

As with other relatively acidic foods it is recommended that it’s not cooked using aluminium pots



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