Showing posts with label Abel and Cole. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Abel and Cole. Show all posts

Sunday, 2 May 2010

What’s in Season for the Month of May

What’s in Season for the Month of May
Eating seasonally and when possible locally, suggests eating food that is at its prime in terms of taste and nutritional contents, while at the same time cutting down on those food miles.
Every month, I hope to publish on my blog a guide to what's in season the main points are going to be about fresh and locally produced (specifically British) produce.

May is definitely the time for vegetables, there are so many that start at the end of April and are either just coming into season or are in full swing this month.
But of all the vegetables this wonderful month of May our favourite is Asparagus when I say asparagus I mean proper English asparagus, not that stuff from Spain or America, which is a bit wishy-washy not that I have anything against asparagus which is not English I like asparagus period.

The English asparagus season officially starts on 1st May, but depending on the weather can start as early as mid-April the harvest lasts for approximately 6 weeks, until mid-June. Although asparagus was once only grown in certain areas of the United Kingdom, such as the Vale of Evesham, East Anglia, Kent, and London, it is now grown in most of the United Kingdom. It's a great accompaniment to seasonal meats and fish, Steam, grill or roast it, add it to tarts or blend it into soups no matter which way you cook it you are going to be in for a tasty treat.
English Asparagus is quite simply in my view the finest in the world and we had some last night. AKA 'Grass' in greengrocer terms it comes in lots of various grades and when really thin is very grass like, this is usually known as sprue and is much cheaper, this in no way means it tastes any less scrumptious than those thick jumbo stalks that tend to fetch the real money, Sprue makes the most magnificent creamy vegetable soup, served hot or even chilled. Without a doubt sprue is Maureen’s favourite grade especially for pickling in her special brine and that way we can have English asparagus for a lot longer than its short season.

If you grow your own then I honestly envy you, and for those of us that do not, always look for crisp firm spears, asparagus benefits from cooking as soon as possible after picking, and if possible, it is best on the same day as picking.
This is why asparagus from abroad can never be as good as our own homegrown crop. These delectable tender purple-green stalks sadly have a short season, so eat lots of it and enjoy the season while it is with us as it traditionally ends on 21st June, the longest day of the year.
Asparagus should first be tied together in bundles, not too tightly; just tight enough to stop them falling out of the bundle then these should be plunged into sufficient boiling salted water so that they float. Return the water to the boil and boil gently for about 5 minutes (depending upon the thickness of the stalks) until just cooked (The Romans had a Saying “As Quick as Asparagus”) which just goes to show how quick it is to cook.
Carefully lift them out with a large perforated spoon if serving hot then serve immediately or alternatively, for use in a salad, plunge them immediately into iced water till cold.

There are not surprisingly, other vegetables that we can look forward to see this month; English tomatoes will start to become quite obvious and get better as the month fades.
Outdoor grown salad leaves of all types come along, as too do radishes, which once again we are growing ourselves on our diminutive balcony and we have already had two cuttings of Rocket (Arugula), Broad beans, spinach, broccoli, courgettes, and new season carrots, all start to appear this month too.

May customarily sees the beginning of the English strawberry season; we have always related them with much later in the year, more like late June, July and August. Another fruit that surprises me at this time of year is the cherry, imported of course but once these and strawberries appear in the shops then you instinctively know summer is just around the corner.
Late May also sees the first flush of summer berries, gooseberries, red currants, black currants and probably even raspberries, now that's something to look forward to isn't it?

The first sardines should soon be appearing at the fishmongers (for those in Pimlico look at the Cornish Chins) so get the barbecue out and start grilling, even though they have always been popular with the Spanish and Portuguese they have never really caught on in this country. We all eat them quite cheerfully while on holiday but it seems when we get back to our own patch, if they do not come in tins then we don't seem to want to know them, its a shame really as when they are fresh they are very yummy. Drizzled with a good quality olive oil and grilled till the skin turns crispy, served with a salad of tossed leaves with a hint of lemon juice and some homemade crusty bread what could be better?

Fruit and Veg;

From Abel and Cole (Abel and Cole, The Organic Source For London) we have been getting Apples, Asparagus, Carrots, Potatoes, and White Onions.

The Market Stall In Tachbrook Street, who always buys British produce when possible are showing Salad leaves of all kinds, Look out for mixed leaves, similar to the French mesclun, also on the stall is English Asparagus at £2 a bunch we had some last night with some Salt Marsh Lamb and it was outstanding. also available was Broccoli (purple sprouting, English), Cucumbers, Leeks, English Potatoes, Artichokes, new crop Strawberries, Broad Beans, Cabbages, Carrots, Lettuce, Radishes, Salad Onions, Mint and Parsley.
Spanish nectarines and peaches are in good supply, both yellow fleshed and white. English greens also come into their own at this time of year.


Pimlico Farmers' Market

One of the farmers at the local farmers' market is bringing in boxes of rocket, mizuna, and mustard leaves.
Jersey Royals are not the only good spuds; look for those grown in Cornwall and Lincolnshire, and use them in salads, with plenty of herbs, especially the pungent garlic chives.

As the chance of frost lessens, it is worth investing in a few pots of herbs for the balcony or windowsill. Stock up on the essentials such as basil, chives and tarragon, and start experimenting with some more unusual flavours. Try growing lovage with its yeasty celery taste, summer savory, which is the classic herb for broad beans, and sweet cicely, with its delicate, anise-flavoured leaves is perfect in summer drinks and fruit salads.

Meat, Poultry and Game;

Our local butcher (Wyndham House Butchers) sadly has closed so we are getting our meats from our online butchers Abel and Cole (Abel and Cole, The Organic Source for London) and Donald Russell. As well as from Rippon Cheese Stores, 26 Upper Tachbrook Street, SW1 (020 7931 0628)

For anyone who appreciates perfectly matured, well-kept cheese of every decent variety, Philip and Karen Rippon's shop is a treat and when they found out about our local butchers, they immediately tried to fill the gap by arranging to supply excellent free range and organic meat from William Rose a high quality butcher who will also deliver to your door. We bought some Salt Marsh Lamb chops and they were simply superb. I will add to my blog an article on Rippon Cheese and William Rose later this week

In general at all good butchers Beef, Chicken, Spring Lamb, Pork, Rabbit, Veal, and Wood Pigeon are all in good supply

Fish and Shellfish;

The local fishmonger (Jonathan Norris, Fishmonger of Pimlico) has been getting in Line Caught Mackerel (See My Recipe Below), Live Cornish Crab, Dressed Cornish Crab, Cornish Crab Claws, Live Cornish Lobsters. Also, from Cornwall and the South West Coast, he has Pollack, Large Skate Wings, Cornish Chins, Cuttlefish, and Red Mullet and from the South Coast, he had in some Wild Black Bream.
His display of fish was a vision and you could see Razor Clams, Scallops, Monk Fish, John Dory (one of my favourites), Megrim Sole, Sea Trout, Brill, Hake, Gurnards (Cornish), Langoustine’s from Scotland and Wild Scottish Halibut.

Almost all Jon’s fish is from around the Cornish, Devon and Scottish coasts you wouldn’t have found Wild Salmon though, Jon was disgusted with the prices that it was bringing and felt he didn’t have the right to ask his regulars to pay such high prices.

Recipe for Baked Mackerel with Gooseberry Sauce

This delicious summer dish (available all year round, if you use frozen gooseberry purée) offers an exciting contrast in flavours, intense oily mackerel is balanced by the sharp tangy gooseberries.

Serves / Makes: 4 very lucky people

Prep-Time: 10 minutes

Cook-Time: 15 to 20 minutes

You Will Need;

4, whole mackerel, cleaned and filleted

Lemon juice, to taste

15 grams, butter

8 ounces, Gooseberries, topped and tailed

1 whole egg, beaten

Method;

Melt the butter in a medium saucepan and add the gooseberries. Cover tightly and cook over a low heat, shaking the pan occasionally, until the gooseberries are tender.

Meanwhile, sprinkle the cavity of each fish with the lemon juice. Make two or three slashes in the skin on each side of the fish, and then grill for 15-20 minutes, depending on size, turning once, until tender.

Purée the gooseberries and sieve to remove the pips.

Pour the purée into a clean pan, beat in the egg, then reheat gently, stirring. Place the mackerel on warmed serving plates and spoon the sauce beside the fish.

Serve and Enjoy!

Notes:

This fish recipe is best served with the freshest mackerel, which if you're on summer holiday you can buy straight from the fisherman in seaside towns. It makes a wonderful family supper.

It was a great summertime favourite in Devon and Cornwall, Tony the head barman at the Bowd Inn used to go beach casting in Sidmouth in his time off and brought freshly caught mackerel back almost daily, Mmm Happy days.

Thursday, 1 April 2010

What’s in Season for the Month of April

What’s in Season This Month

Eating seasonally and when possible locally, suggests eating food that is at its prime in terms of taste and nutritional contents, while at the same time cutting down on those food miles.

Every month, I hope to publish on my blog a guide to what's in season the main points are going to be about fresh and locally produced (specifically British) foodstuffs.

What’s in Season for the Month of April

As the spring sun warms the soil, we can look forward to an abundance of wonderful ingredients coming into season over the next few weeks. Instead of rocket, try watercress it works wonders in simple salads, sophisticated salads, with fish and with cheese.

Don't fancy watercress? Other foods good this week include purple sprouting broccoli, radishes, rhubarb, kiwi fruit, wood pigeon, John Dory, and salmon not forgetting the first of the Jersey royal new potatoes

The first herbs are appearing now, allowing us to add some fresher flavours to our food. Look out for wild garlic, chives, sorrel, and rocket.

Fruit and Veg;

From Abel and Cole (Abel and Cole, the Organic Source for London) we have been getting;

Bananas (Fairtrade), Carrots, Celeriac, Celery, Green Lettuce, Leeks, Mandarins, Oranges, Potatoes, and White Onions.

Abel and Coles Blog on Purple Sprouting Broccoli, Purple sprouting broccoli, like asparagus, blood oranges and strawberries, is one of the big treats of the organic food calendar. Unlike our tender friend asparagus, the season for PSB (as we affectionately call it) thankfully runs a little longer making this tasty veg a welcome splash of colour, after months of pastel-hued root veg. Philip le Maistre grows these regal-tipped, tender stems on Manor Farm on the island of Jersey. The farm has spectacular views. Phil says his PSB can grow enormously tall. He bets some of the stems can see clear across the Channel, over to France.

His purple broccoli comes in all sorts of varieties. Claret is very pretty, almost fluorescent pinky-purple in colour. Then, there’s Rudolf, and Red Spear. They’ve all got different characteristics. Some may have a large head, like normal broccoli, with only a few smaller shoots, while some will have lots of smaller shoots with a less dominant head. This, Philip, says keeps the season interesting. Every batch of PSB is unique. We urge you to give it a try, that is, if you haven’t already.

And On the Market Stall in Tachbrook Street, They Are Showing;

Broccoli (at its best), carrots, cauliflower (at its best), chicory, cucumber, kale, leeks, onions, potatoes (main crop), purple sprouting broccoli (at its best), radishes (at its best), rhubarb (at its best), rocket, salsify, spinach (at its best), spring onions, watercress

Meat, Poultry and Game;

Our local butcher (Wyndham House Butchers) has been getting in beef, chicken, spring lamb, pork, rabbit, veal, and wood pigeon. I have to say that the current lot of pork is superb as is the beef, which is well hung and very tasty.

We had some of their English lamb chops last night and the flavour was really intense, just about the best yet.

Fish and Shellfish;

The local fishmonger (Jonathan Norris, Fishmonger of Pimlico) has been getting in cockles (at its best), conger eel (at its best), crab, eel, john dory (at its best), lobster, mackerel, mussels, oysters (Whether you regard them as food of the gods, or spawn of the devil, oysters are a unique culinary experience, and April is the last, best, month to eat them), prawns, salmon (at its best), sea trout (at its best), shrimp (at its best), skate, whitebait (at its best), winkles, again almost all Jon’s fish is from around the Cornish, Devon and Scottish coasts.

And you should be finding

· Wild nettles, basil, chervil, chives, coriander, dill, mushrooms (cultivated), parsley (curly), parsley (flat-leaf), sorrel Artichokes, Chicory, Chives, Dandelion Greens, Grapefruit, Greens, Horseradish, Leeks, Lettuce (leaf and head), Oranges, Parsnips, Rhubarb, Shallots, and Jersey royal new potatoes

· Crab, Haddock, John Dory, Lobster, Mackerel, Monkfish, Prawns, Sea Bass, Sea Salmon, Trout, Turbot

· Beef Steaks, Chicken, Sausages, Spring Lamb (spring lamb is traditionally served with the Easter roast. The taste is milder than summer or autumn lamb and it is deliciously tender).

Recipe for April

Spring Lamb Cutlets with a Wild Garlic Crust

Serves / Makes: 2 servings

Prep-Time: 10 minutes

Cook-Time: 15 minutes

You Will Need;

4 small or 2 large lamb cutlets

For the crust:

50 grams, white bread, torn into chunks

2 tablespoons, wild garlic leaves

1 teaspoon fresh rosemary

1 teaspoon fresh thyme

Salt and pepper

1 tablespoon olive oil

Knob of butter

Method;

Pre-heat the oven to 220°c.

Heat the olive oil and butter in a heavy frying pan until foaming but not coloured and pan fry the cutlets for a few minutes on each side until browned.

Meanwhile, in a small blender whizz the bread, garlic leaves, rosemary, thyme and salt and pepper. Press the mixture onto each cutlet, and roast in the oven for 15 minutes.

Serve with new potatoes and buttered curly kale and Enjoy!

Notes:
If you go down to the woods today, it's likely the smell of wild garlic (ramsons) will fill the air. This wild relative of the chive can be eaten in many ways, both raw and cooked - in soups, salads, or taking basil's place in pesto. In this month's recipe, it partners traditional rosemary to flavour some equally seasonal spring lamb.

Sunday, 14 March 2010

What’s In Season for the Month of March

Eating seasonally and when possible locally, suggests eating food that is at its prime in terms of taste and nutritional contents, while at the same time cutting down on those food miles.

Every month, I hope to publish on my blog a guide to what's in season, the main points are going to be about fresh and locally produced (specifically British) foodstuffs.

What’s In Season for the Month of MarchIt’s a bit early for most spring vegetables but there is plenty of Purple Sprouting Broccoli about, Spring greens are also plentiful and Scottish wild salmon is back in season.

March is a tricky month for the chef, as there's nothing new on the home grown front however at least leeks and potatoes are plentiful and tasty, and both compete for the title of most adaptable vegetable.

Fruit and Veg;

From Abel and Cole (Abel and Cole, The Organic Source for London) we have been getting really tasty Fair-trade Bananas, Beetroot, Broccoli, Carrots, Celery, Green Lettuce, Portobello Mushrooms (From The Hearne Family), Potatoes, Fennel, and White Onions.

And on the market stall in Tachbrook Street, they are showing Artichokes (new season from Italy), Asparagus (new season from Spain), Chicory, Chives, Dandelion Greens, Grapefruit, Greens, Horseradish, Leeks, Lettuce (leaf and head), Oranges, Parsnips, Peas, Rhubarb, and Shallots.

Meat, Poultry and Game;

Our local butcher (Wyndham House Butchers) has been getting in Beef, Chicken, Pork, Guinea Fowl, Rabbit, Turkey, Wood Pigeon and all are available at their place in Borough Market.

Fish and Shellfish;

The local fishmonger (Jonathan Norris, Fishmonger of Pimlico) has been supplying us Cockles, Conger Eel, Crab, Dabs, Dover Sole, Eel, Hake, John Dory, Lemon Sole, Lobster, Mackerel, Mussels, Oysters, Prawns, Salmon, Scallops, Sea Trout, Shrimp, Skate, Whitebait, Not to Mention Nice Large Cod and Haddock. Most of Jon’s fish is caught in Cornish and Devon waters as well as the abundant Scottish waters.

Recipe for March

 

Megrim Sole with Brown Butter, Capers, Lemon, and Parsley

We love it grilled or roasted whole with plenty of butter, olive oil, parsley and lemon and served with steamed or boiled new potatoes and fresh garden peas mixed with baby broad beans Consumers frequently fail to see megrim because of its unfamiliar name. It is usually caught off the Cornish coast, the Irish Sea and is frequently found in Scottish waters.

Serves / Makes:           2 servings

Prep-Time:                   5 minutes

Cook-Time:                 8 to 10 minutes

You Will Need;

800 grams, Megrim sole, either whole on the bone or 4 x 200g megrim sole fillets, trimmed and skinned, if you have a good relationship with your fishmonger why not ask him to do this for you?

2 tablespoons, plain flour for dusting

1 pinch sea salt

1 pinch, freshly ground pepper

1 tablespoon, vegetable oil

40 grams, salted butter

½ lemon

1 tablespoon, chopped parsley

2 teaspoons baby capers

Method;

Season the flour, coat the sole both sides with the flour and knock off any excess, we find it best to put the flour into a bag and then add the fish and gently shake until the fish is coated.

Heat the oil in a large well seasoned or a non–stick frying pan, add the sole, lower the heat slightly, and add 20 grams of butter, fry on a moderate heat for 4 to 5 minutes, turn over, and allow to cook through.

Lift the fish on to serving plate and keep warm. Now wipe the frying pan clean, and add the remaining butter and allow to melt over a moderate heat, once the butter starts to froth and smell nutty and it turns a light brown, add the lemon juice, capers, and parsley. Check the seasoning and pour the brown butter over the sole. 

Serve with a lemon wedge and Enjoy!

Notes:

Pan frying fish, The French call it "sauté,” it's a great way of cooking most types of fish fillets as well as some whole fish. Pat the fish dry with clean kitchen paper and make 3 or 4 shallow slashes across the skin side of the fish and portion the fillets if necessary.

Heat a non-stick frying pan or skillet until hot, add a little olive or sunflower oil. Lay the fish into the pan away from you skin side down so that any oil that might splash from the pan doesn't burn you.

Allow the fish to start to crisp up, turn the heat down and allow it to cook until almost finished cooking; then leave the fish in the pan for a couple of minutes to finish cooking. If you are cooking fillets, turn them over on to the flesh side and immediately turn the heat off. There will be sufficient residual heat in the pan to finish the cooking process.

If you are cooking a whole fish, place the pan into a hot oven (200C / 380-400F) and leave until cooked; this will depend on the thickness of the fish. Squeeze Lemon juice over the fish and season to taste with sea salt and black pepper, add extra virgin olive oil to taste.

As the fillets of fish start to cook, the cut sides will change colour from raw opaque to creamy white cooked. The more that the colour changes the closer to being cooked they are, when light pressure on a fillet starts to separate its flakes, it is cooked.